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WTN: 1989 in Europe

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 1989 in Europe

by Dale Williams » Sun Apr 21, 2024 10:32 am

A nice group gathered at Quality Bistro for a “1989 in Europe” theme. Like last time there, we started with the “butter garni” (a huge pile of butter mixed with shallots, pimente d'espelette, fleur de sel) served with grilled sourdough, radishes, cornichons, leeks, ham, chorizo spread, and eggplant spread. Soon followed by fried chicken and an excellent frisee/lardon salad. Then Franco and I split the chateaubriand , sides included green beans and mushrooms. I believe table ended up with lots of desserts as well.

2020 G. Boulay Les Culs de Beaujeu Sancerre
Off the list, very well done, but a bit marked by the warm vintage. B/B-

1989 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese
Brisk and crisp despite a tropical (mango and papaya) fruit profile, smoky and long. Liked a lot. B+

Jay brought an (unneeded ) backup bottle , served blind, he said it was dyslexic to theme, so we figured 1998 (not 1899). But I was lost on wine. Lighter texture, a little barnyard, slightly lifted, but with long soil driven finish,, someone suggested Musar, I was about to guess Northern Rhone, when he unveiled I was surprised at Burg. I liked quite a bit after it got more air. 1998 Lafarge Clos du Ch. des Ducs Volnay. B+

1989 Pegau Cuvee Reserve Chateauneuf du Pape
Red fruited (cherry and raspberry), undergrowth, just a hint of barnyard. Complex and svelte for CdP. B+/A-

1989 Jaboulet "La Chapelle" Hermitage
Spicy, black fruits, grilled meats. Nice long finish. B+

1989 Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Barolo Riserva
A little tight when double decanted in afternoon, opened nicely. Fragrant red fruits, tar, and rose petals. Enough power to go with the steak, but balanced and elegant. A little mushroomy at end, but in a pleasant way. A-


1989 Pape Clément
Some initial concern this was corked, but I didn’t get it. Midweight, red plums and tobacco, tangy finish. B+/B

1989 Leoville Las Cases
Tight and pulled within itself, another LLC that needs more time. B- for drinking now

1989 Filliatreau"Lena" Saumur-Champigny
A bit lost among the Bordeaux, but really quite nice, herbs and black fruit with a little animal note. B/B+

1989 La Conseillante
Rich black plum and cassis, mocha, spices. Complex, complete, and long. My WOTN, A-/A

1989 Lynches Bages
Powerful, cassis and leather, good length. B+/A-

I liked all the dessert wines, but only took quick tastes, headed out for my train

1989 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles
Honey, lychee, and apricot, good length.

1989 Huet Le Haut-Lieu Vouvray Moelleux
Wax, citrus, pear, honey. Good and not very heavy.

1989 Pinon Goutte d'Or Vouvray
Rich, honied apricots, floral;

Fun night. Very lucky, no wines flawed or even that I didn’t like.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: 1989 in Europe

by Bill Spohn » Sun Apr 21, 2024 11:18 am

Great theme! Problem is that any given group probably won't have many wines that old in their cellars (I'd be OK - I have 5 mixed cases, mostly Bordeaux and Rhone). I'll have to ponder that sort of theme for my gatherings but maybe a later vintage so chances are that everyone can come up with something.
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Paul Winalski

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Re: WTN: 1989 in Europe

by Paul Winalski » Sun Apr 21, 2024 2:41 pm

Thanks for the notes. I have some '89 Jaboulet La Chapelle and '89 Lunch Bags. I need to invent an occasion to open them.

-Paul W.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: 1989 in Europe

by Dale Williams » Thu Apr 25, 2024 4:32 pm

I think you'll enjoy both Paul.
Bill, our Bdx group did 1989 claret and then wanted to do 1989 from everywhere else, as no other region had enough people with '89s. But someone else (Brad) then put this together, just inviting people he knew had '89s

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