Ready to try some German GGs — recs?

I just had a terrific dry Riesling (Austrian) and it made me resolve to finally try some German GGs. I’ve hitherto been put off by the perception these are all quite pricey, but I see some GGs for reasonable rates ($30-$50), from addresses I know like St. Urban-Hof, Von Hovel, Zilliken, Grunhauser, Schäfer-Fröhlich.

Where to start? If I like the off-dry wine from a given Weingut, will the GG also be good?

Just like with the off-dry wines, there is a wealth of objectively high-quality German GG wine, and much of the debate will be about your personal tastes. The value proposition is not as strong as with the off-dry wines, but not much you can do about that.

I don't know if you'll necessarily always like the GGs from the producers where you like the off-dry wines, because you might be looking for different things in dry and off-dry wines. But, the same overall stylistic/geographic logic usually holds. MSR GGs are crisper than Pfalz and Rheinhessen GGs, etc.

Also worth noting that some producers excel at both dry and off-dry, others are stronger at one as opposed to the other.

I would just start buying wines and drinking them, depending on your interests. As always!

On your list the only one I've bought many GGs from is Schafer Frolich (love them), but had a very good Zilliken Rausch. Besides GGs might look of course at other trocken wines. I used to love the Keller von der Fels as less expensive alternative to their (great) GGs, but it's getting pricey too.

Besides GGs might look of course at other trocken wines...

Indeed. GGs are the Grand Cru wines, so unlike with the pradikat wines, you might look to Burgundy as a reference point for deciphering the dry wine options. And you might want some info on whether the particular GG will show well young, because like many Burgundy Grand Crus, they can be backwards in youth.

There are some single-vineyard trocken wines that could be considered the equivalent of Premier Cru in Burgundy. But more often the next step down will be a village-level trocken that will not be as complex but could drink well young and be an attractive option, depending on what you are looking for. Then there are also regional trockens, equivalent of Bourgogne Blanc.

[David M. Bueker]

I do like many GGs, but the pricing drives me to Austria. That said, my current favorite is the Shafer-Frohlich Kupfergrube.

Cheers, chaps. This is very helpful. Most of what I see is pretty young and it sounds like many of these need a good 10 years or so to show their best, but I’ll give a few a try now to get a gauge on the styles.

It has been ages (2008?) since I had a trocken, I should look for those too.

Thanks from me too, this is super helpful.

I'll defer to David and especially Rahsaan who have certainly had more than I have, but while they may (should) take a while to show their best, I've never run across a GG that is totally shut down like Burgs, Bdx, or off-dry Riesling can be.
And remember while all trockens aren't GGs, all GGs are trocken.

[David M. Bueker]

And a lot of GGs are close to the edge of trocken with 6-8 g/l or RS, which is another reason I skew Austrian if I want a truly dry Riesling.

I’m sure my palate has evolved a lot since 2008, but the main reason I haven’t had a full trocken in so long was the one I had back then (2001 Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken) was too shrill and austere for me to want more. So maybe a slightly richer GG style will appeal.

I'll defer to David and especially Rahsaan who have certainly had more than I have, but while they may (should) take a while to show their best, I've never run across a GG that is totally shut down like Burgs, Bdx, or off-dry Riesling can be...

Interesting. On the last point, I would have said that off-dry riesling is more likely to be accessible throughout the lifecycle because the sugar makes it friendly.

But, more broadly, I agree that one shouldn't be too dogmatic about an entire category needing years of age. As always, it depends on the wine and one's palate.

I've enjoyed plenty of young GGs, and will continue to do so. I wouldn't say stay away in general. But I've also had plenty that were not showing much when young. Depends what you're looking for on the occasion, and the specific wine, like any regional category.

I’m sure my palate has evolved a lot since 2008, but the main reason I haven’t had a full trocken in so long was the one I had back then (2001 Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken) was too shrill and austere for me to want more. So maybe a slightly richer GG style will appeal.

Yes, a 2001 basic trocken from the Mosel will be very different from a 2022 GG from the Rheinhessen!

More guts in the GGs, but also variation across producers. Germany has so many regions, you can get the full range of dry wine styles to suit any mood!

[David M. Bueker]

I’m sure my palate has evolved a lot since 2008, but the main reason I haven’t had a full trocken in so long was the one I had back then (2001 Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken) was too shrill and austere for me to want more. So maybe a slightly richer GG style will appeal.

Mosel dry wines have evolved significantly since then. I still prefer dry wines from Nahe, Rheinhessen, and Rheingau, but Mosel Trocken and GG wines are not just for masochists anymore.