WTN: RB Bdx, Champagne, Chianti, Corton Ch, etc

Hmart chicken, trumpet mushrooms, salad, with the 2016 Castello di Bossi Berardo Chianti Classico Riserva. Not what I am looking for in Chianti- heavy, a little hot, thick. Unfortunately I have a couple more of these (in a lot with a couple of Querciabellas, which is what I wanted). C+

Gochugaru salmon with crispy rice, yu choy, beech mushrooms, with the 2021 Ch. de la Noblesse Bandol Rose. Sweet cherry, warm, not the snappiest but good match with the spicy salmon. B-/C+

Friday up to John’s for a night of claret and Champagne. The usual crew, plus Salil who I haven’t seen in 6-8 years. Nice spread of cheeses and pate, plus some homemade gravlax to go with the bubbles. We got really lucky with some great wines.
Jacques Selosse “Initial” Blanc de Blancs
Lovely, rich peach fruit but with nervy chalky minerality, long complex finish. But out of my price range these days. A-/B+
2001 Trotanoy
Young, structured, deep core of black plum fruit with mocha notes. B for now, A potential.
1993 Trotanoy
A lovely surprise (to me at least), plum and dark berries, earth, some green pepper and herbs, but in balance. B/B+
NV Barbichon 4 Cepages (2019 base)
Fine mousse, pit fruits and fresh bread, fun. B+/B
1989 La Dominique
Christmas spices/fruitcake, very exotic. B+
1989 Magdelaine
Young but stunning, black cherry, cassis, cigarbox, and smoke. Very long. A-
2007 Marie Noelle Ledru Champagne
Green apple, citrus, and honey,. Vibrant and elegant. A-


1989 La Conseillante
Black cherry and plum, cocoa, with a lovely green herb twist to the finish. Complete and fine. A-/A
1989 Certan de May
Someone calls Burgundian, black and red cherries with leather and herb, a little horsey note, but balanced. B+
2006 Billecart Salmon Elisabeth Salmon Rose Champagne
Soft but not flabby, elegant mousse, red fruited with orange zest and smoke. Complex. A-/B+
1986 L’Arrosee
So this was declared corked before it got to me, I didn’t pour , but someone later questioned. I went and tried, not overtly corked, but something musty that doesn’t belong, this is usually a very good wine. NR
1982 Magdelaine
Black plums and raspberries, cedar and mocha, great length and complexity. A/A-
1989 Trotanoy
Clearly corked. This was one of the bottles I brought, but I hadn’t detected at double decanting. Damn.
1985 Trotanoy
Red fruits, coffee, cigar smoke, quite good but I’ve had great bottles of this. B+
Really fun night, sorry I had to mostly spit, but great company and we got very lucky with the wines, I’d be happy with any of the non-corked ones on any night.
Saturday was oysters, cod cheeks, crab cakes, broccoli, and the 2008 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne. There’s still a woody streak here, but solid pear and grapefruit base, bright acids, no oxidation, good tangy finish. B for me, might be higher for those that like their wood.

Sunday I was making chili but we got invited to her sister’s for pork tacos. Not the easiest match, but the NV (2005) Charles Heidsieck Special Edition Brut Rose did pretty well. Red cherries, citrus zest, caraway seed, with enough generosity to go with mild spice but enough verve to not be trampled (bottled 2006, disgorged 2019). B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Sounds like a fun night. I’ve been enjoying the 89 La Dominique for 13-14 years, I recall we had an excellent bottle in 2010 back at the original Fabio’s.

Give my best to Salil when you see him next, glad he’s back in the area.

I'll tell him (he's not exactly in area, more Albany, but easy Amtrak to Croton station, or to city). Maybe next time you are in town.
I neglected to mention that John served excellent short ribs with the last 2 flights.

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks for the notes. Salil gave me a rundown over the phone the other day. Supposed to see him in Albany (weather depending) later this month.

Dale, thanks for the notes (forgot the names/cuvees of a couple of the Champagnes, so these are super helpful). My impressions - aside from the ones that were obviously off (corked), everything was stellar. I think my grades may have been higher for a few (85 Trotanoy, 89 La Dominique, and Ledru especially). 93 Trotanoy was a real eye opener for me - loved the greenness (very Loire CF like, and I mean that in the best way) even though it felt a bit light on the back end. But beautiful to sit and smell. 89 Conseillante was a wow wine.

I found myself liking the La Dominique slightly more than the 89 Magdelaine when we had those 2 side by side. Loved that exotic/spicy aspect of the nose, but that's not a knock on the Magdelaine that was lovely. 82 Magdelaine didn't make as much of an impression, but I was also rushing for train by then. But as we noted later, pretty much everything that wasn't corked was genuinely outstanding and could have been a contender for WOTN in many lineups. Wonderful evening, and great to see you and John and a few others again.

Pat - thanks, now moved to Albany (new academic job nearby). But also will be in NYC often enough (also sharing a package of Yankees season tickets for next year, so I'll be in the Bronx often enough.) Thank heavens for trains - I missed the Amtrak and MNR a lot when living in mostly train-less Indiana.

Great to have you back, Salil.
David, I should mention that Champagne Jeff also sent his regards to you, said he hadn't seen you in ages.

I still have 93 Trotanoy - happy to hear it is still going strong!

[Jenise]

The wines look incredible. What a great night, and Salil--happy to see you here again!

...sharing a package of Yankees season tickets for next year, so I'll be in the Bronx often enough...

Impressive. And with the length of those games, you could hold a jeebus in the stadium. If only they let you bring in outside beverages!

[David M. Bueker]

...sharing a package of Yankees season tickets for next year, so I'll be in the Bronx often enough...

Impressive. And with the length of those games, you could hold a jeebus in the stadium. If only they let you bring in outside beverages!

With the pitch clock the games are now are much more reasonable length. That said, what wine to serve alongside a hot dog and ballpark nachos…

...sharing a package of Yankees season tickets for next year, so I'll be in the Bronx often enough...

Impressive. And with the length of those games, you could hold a jeebus in the stadium. If only they let you bring in outside beverages!

With the pitch clock the games are now are much more reasonable length. That said, what wine to serve alongside a hot dog and ballpark nachos…

Champagne or Spatlese pair with nearly everything.

With the pitch clock the games are now are much more reasonable length. That said, what wine to serve alongside a hot dog and ballpark nachos…

I guess. I heard the games were down to 2h30 minutes this past year. Which is definitely better than 3+ hours, but still not brisk.

And yes, stadiums are not actually geared towards fine wine. But the food options these days are quite diverse and higher-end than in the past. Plus, Champagne should work well!

[David M. Bueker]

Hopefully, with COVID not gone but largely manageable it will be easier to see folks again. It’s been too long for many meetings!