WTN: 1995 Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben

[David M. Bueker]

• 1995 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben Kamptal - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (1/7/2024)
  26 years ago I had never heard of Grüner Veltliner. A very helpful wine merchant suggested that I buy a few bottles of this. I opened one bottle shortly thereafter and was smitten. I have been a Grüner Veltliner fan since then. Over the ensuing twenty+ years I slowly picked away at a sadly dwindling stash of the wine that lit the spark. Tonight was the final bottle. It did not disappoint.
  
  The cork was in great shape. I used the Durand but probably didn’t need to. Lots of tartrate crystals stuck to the underside of the cork. Golden color was perhaps darker than expected, but not worrisome. The aromatics eliminated any questions. Yellow fruit, boxwood, a light touch of honey, and a background note of Oolong tea signaled a mature bottle, but not at all tired. The flavors turned fresher, and sustained even after being open for four hours. I had thought about leaving this bottle for its 30th birthday, and I could have done so. That said it was a lovely drink that evoked memories of my first encounter with the grape, and reminded me (again!) how much I love drinking Austrian Grüner Veltliner.

Wonderful that it showed so well at that age! One expects longevity from good Rieslings but we largely neglect Gruner.

This varietal definitely evades the notice it deserves, and because most of us seldom drink it, it isn't exactly the first thought when confronting it in a blind tasting.

We had zero Austrian wines here in BC for decades, until an agent appeared and got a bunch of listings. One of the partners was a truncated (i.e. short) chap with a sense of humour, and he dressed in lederhosen for trade shows. Sadly, no doubt due to the high cost of living and wages in Austria, it is hard for them to compete with other areas and the prices are generally on the high side.

I think that the only person that has brought one to my blind tasting events is Jenise, who loves to stump us.

It is being made up and down the West Coast from California to BC but the best (in BC, probably Culmina) are mostly sold out to a wine club list and doesn't make it to retail.

Any notable ones down there, Jenise?