WTN: Rio Madre 2021 Graciano Rioja

[Robin Garr]

I picked up this Rioja on impulse, thinking it would be interesting because it's an offbeat variation on the genre: Rather than the usual Tempranillo-dominant red blend, it's 100% Graciano, a Spanish variety that's usually a minor player in the blend.

Produced by Bodegas y Viñedos Ilurce and distributed by respected importer Jorge Ordóñez, it's made from vineyards – some dating back to 1917 – cared for without the use of chemically synthesized fungicides, pesticides, herbicides, or elemental fertilizers. In contrast with traditional Rioja's aggressively oaky style, this wine is whole-berry fermented with neutral yeast in large concrete vats and stainless-steel tanks, then aged six months in used French barriques that add only minimal oak flavor.

Better still, it's affordable, with U.S. prices ranging from under $10 to the middle teens. And I believe it will go just fine with Thanksgiving dinner.

Rio Madre 2021 Graciano Rioja ($15.99)

Rio Madre Graciano Rioja is made with 100% Graciano. Dark garnet in color with a clear edge, it presents appealing blackberry and plum aromas with a distinct back note of pomegranate. The flavor is luscious with black fruit framed by a firm acidic structure and gentle but persistent tannins. Subtle hints of black pepper, black olive, and a whiff of orange peel make their way into a very long finish. Its potent 14.5% alcohol doesn't show itself as harshness or heat. U.S. importer: Fine Estates from Spain Inc., Jorge Ordóñez Selections, Dedham, Mass. (Oct. 16, 2023)

FOOD MATCH: It would be a natural with leg of lamb or roast fowl, and would not be amiss on the table for a holiday feast. It went very well for us with a simple tortilla espanola filled with thin-sliced potatoes and onions gently fried in plenty of olive oil.

WHEN TO DRINK: Single-varietal Graciano doesn't have a significant record for aging, but its intensity and balance suggest that it isn't going to fall apart in the short to medium term at least.

VALUE:
My local price came in on the high end compared to Wine-Searcher.com's $12 average U.S. retail, with some retailers reporting prices under $10. It's a spectacular value at those bargain prices, but it's so good that the middle teens into the $20s would still be a justifiable price.

WEB LINK:
Here's an extensive fact sheet from distributor Jorge Ordóñez Selections.

This link will take you to an English-language Rio Madre fact sheet on producer Bodegas y Viñedos Ilurce's website. Click here to view the producer's brief and informative YouTube video in English about Graciano.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Rio Madre Graciano Rioja on Wine-Searcher.com.

Check this Wine-Searcher link to read about Graciano and find wines made from the grape.

Read more about Rioja and find links to vendors and prices at this Wine-Searcher link.

Hi, Robin; thanks for posting. I'm curious about the Rio Madré, having worked with Graciano from Shake Ridge ranch, and finding it such a compelling variety, principally because of its considerable structure. Shake Ridge has Tempranillo also, and it's a bit on the warm side at Shake Ridge for Tempranillo to strut its best stuff. The Graciano really steps into the breach, (along with Grenache) to pull things into a harmonious balance, there. To find an all-Graciano wine at such a friendly price seems almost too good to be true. I'm going to have to find a bottle!

[Robin Garr]

Steve, I’ll be interested to hear your thoughts. I think Ordóñez imports are pretty easy to find, so good luck!

Yes an excellent Rioja. Good reviews on CT.

[Jenise]

The Rio Madre has gotten very positive mentions on this site before. Just checked and saw an '11 that Tom Hill was lovin' on in 2020. I'd love to try it. One of the highlights of our trip to Spain in 2017 was a 100% Graciano at Contino; it was the kind of good that makes you go "why isn't everyone making this?"

Btw, speaking of Tom Hill, there's apparently an indiginous Sicilian grape that's very very similar called something like Cagnaluna. If you ever see it....