TN: 1998 Vieux Donjon CNduP

1998 Vieux Donjon CNduP

I tasted this around the turn of the millenium and decided that it was going places and laid down a couple of cases, but I haven't revisited it in the last couple of years. This chateauneuf had been a long time favourite of mine - I've done vertical dinners a couple of times with every good vintage back to 1990.and should probably think about doing one more.(I still have a dozen vintages).

While looking for something else I came across the 98 and decided to check up on it. Not much change - still fairly dark and with a killer nose of the usual garrigue (which can be quite evocative if you have been in France and smelled the real drylands - it is a fascinating mixture of sage, rosemary, a smoky hint, some thyme, with floral hints (I always think of faint lavender) and as it opens a black cherry note.

In the mouth it is forward and full bodied and has excellent length, presenting a smooth profile that still shows soft tannins. Glad I decided to cellar this and sorry for people that drank theirs too soon, or the unfortunate ones that post tasting notes saying it is over the hill - it is still climbing or at the plateau - any other experience is likely due to poor shipping or storage conditions - we had a strike once that sidelined a lot of valuable wine in unrefrigerated conditions and a lot of spoiled wine was sold without mentioning that to customers!

If you still have this one, try a bottle. I also have cases of the 2007, a very controversial vintage and the 2016 which are worth a trial bottle soon.

[David M. Bueker]

Sounds lovely. Sadly the two bottles I cellared, as well as most of my other 1998s (save Pegau and Beaucastel) were victims of mistreatment in the supply chain.

[Jenise]

I love those 98's. It was you bringing one to a Gav lunch early in my career with the group that made me understand how much I'd been missing out on in the Southern Rhone. Believe it or not, up til then, I didn't think too highly of them. The odd Beaucastel had impressed but not much else. Turns out, I just had the wrong friends!

Wrong friends, perhaps but also the wrong supply chain likely - these wines required careful shipping so as not to damage them. The Ontario and BC liquor boards were the largest single wholesale buyers in the world at the time in terms of volume and usually ensured good shipping conditions.

Been thinking about this and am pondering doing a tasting survey of soe CNduP I cellar

Opening a couple a week or so and updating myself on them and posting notes. I'd probably start with the 1995s as they need attention sooner. Between the 1995s and 1998s I'd end up with 9 notes on 95s and 12 or 13 on the 98s.

[Jenise]

I'll look forward to your notes. You really scored on those two vintages.

Re me and Southern Rhones, I think we were mostly drinking them too young.