WTN: No contest riesling: Wasenhaus vs. Ruck

It wasn’t fair.

Wasenhaus is not exactly known for Riesling. And the short retailer summary of the 2020 Wasenhaus Riesling was that it was ‘more Wasenhaus than Riesling’. Which should have been a warning, as that is usually not a good sign for me. But I was curious. So I laid down my 58 euros and later opened a sour pungent blob of natty wine that offered me no pleasure.

Thankfully, the basic 2022 Johann Ruck Iphöfer Riesling Trocken was also on the table. A classic Franken pleasure. Firm and deep for the level, does a great job of balancing sturdiness/guts and freshness/juiciness, while also providing lovely minerality and fragrance to add nuance. Correct and interesting. All for less than 10 euros.

Sometimes wine math is funny.

[David M. Bueker]

"sour pungent blob of natty wine that offered me no pleasure"

I can almost taste it.

"sour pungent blob of natty wine that offered me no pleasure"

I can almost taste it.

And funnily enough, it was pretty much exactly what I expected/feared. So I probably shouldn't have wasted the money. But, you never know until you try. And, I was curious...

[David M. Bueker]

Thanks for taking one for the team. I have been curious about Wasenhaus, but not quite curious enough to buy one.

Thanks for taking one for the team. I have been curious about Wasenhaus, but not quite curious enough to buy one.

I really like the wines and have drunk some of their Spätburgunder and Weissburgunder this summer, which is their specialty. They are not known for Riesling and Vom Boden did not import the Riesling, so I figured it was my chance. But, now I know why!

That said, it is insane how fast the hype has pushed their prices and limited their availability. Not just in the US, it's also hard to buy them in Germany, where they barely hit retail shelves, despite being 'over-priced'. I guess also a function of small production.

So I'm happy to drink them when I happen to come across them, to check in on their progress. But I feel no need to chase them and they don't strike me as the types of wines I need to stockpile for aging. Others with more expansive cellars (or different tastes/collecting/hoarding compulsions) may feel differently.

I've actually never heard of either. But looking I see local shop with Gutedel (Chasselas). Have you had that?

I've actually never heard of either. But looking I see local shop with Gutedel (Chasselas). Have you had that?

In many ways, they are polar opposite wineries.

Ruck is a famous old-school name in Franken. At one point imported to the States, but maybe not right now. Yet easy to purchase in Germany and very classic.

Wasenhaus is a new (2016 first vintage) hype-machine winery that has gotten very expensive and impossible to find, within a few vintages. Very much in the style of Enderle & Moll, but their fans will tell you they are better. Plenty of Wasenhaus chatter on Berserkers.

I've not had the Wasenhaus gutedel, although of course people like it. Wasenhaus is most famous for Spatburgunder and Weissburgunder. Which, as I said above, I find very tasty, but not worth effort/money to chase down. Top cuvees will cost you over $100 in the US, but for me they are essentially Natural Wine Juice, and not worth that premium. Others clearly feel differently.