WTN: 20+ Cab Francs 1982-2010 in Dobbs Ferry

A group of Cab Franc fans from near and far gathered at my place Sunday for a big Loire CF retrospective.Mused about doing outdoors, but humidity and chance of thunderstorms let us to set up inside. Started with charcuterie (coppa, pate, duck breast), cheeses (mostly NE with a Robiola), and garlic scape/bean dip.

2016 Suenen La Cocluette Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
Young but delicious, pear and bright citrus, Parker house rolls. Long finish, fine mousse, really special. A-

Then Cab Franc time. Wines were in flights of 2 (not blind)

2010 Olga Raffault Les Picasses Chinon
Approachable but really a baby. Firm tannins, smoke, a hint of barnyard. B for now, expect to get better

2006 Breton Les Perrieres Bourgueil
Dark fruit, saddle leather, a little tobacco, stony finish. Drinking well. B+

2005 Breton “Franc de Pieds” Bourgueil
Before the tasting when I removed capsule- I gulped- plastic cork! Yet the wine survived. Black fruit, touch of spice, good length. B/B+

2005 Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Vieilles Vignes
Still pretty tannic, stern nose, this needs time. B/B- for drinking now, expect improvement

2005 Charles Joguet Clos du Chene Vert Chinon
I’ve really liked this in past, but this is closed and unexpressive during fist go. Opinions differed. But later revisit was very nice, with black raspberry and tobacco. B- becoming B+

2005 Breton Clos Senechal Bourgueil
Complex and complete, lovely aromatics, nice gravelly finish. B+/A-

2002 Breton Les Picasses Chinon
Lighter than the Olga, cow patty, green pepper and cherries. B-

2002 Olga Raffault Les Picasses Chinon
Somewhat closed down, good stuffing underneath. This was decanted on site after travel, so could be sediment playing a part. B-?

2002 Breton Clos Senechal Bourgueil
Just a hint of barnyard, crunchy black fruit, woodsmoke. Nice finish. A-/B+

2002 Breton Les Perrieres Bourgueil
Cassis, roast meat, but a bit clipped. B-/B

Palate break
NV Filaine Cuvee Speciale (2017/2018/2019)
Rich, pear and almond, brioche, good length. B+/A-

About here put out some grilled quail, lamb sausage, Smoking Goose andouille, and John’s excellent couscous

1996 Druet Grand Mont Bourgueil
Long, red fruits (cherry and cranberry), with light notes of bell pepper and cigarbox, very nice indeed. A-

1996 Olga Raffault Les Picasses Chinon
Black fruit, mushrooms, lots of tobacco. B+/B

1996 Taluau Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil Vieilles Vignes
I think everyone else liked this more than I did, I found it somewhat blocky. B?

1995 Breton Les Perrieres Bourgueil
Black raspberry, roasted peppers, integrated tannins, good length. B+

1995 Druet Grand Mont Bourgueil
Odd caramelly note on finish,. I think this saw some heat at some point. NR

Time for some veal stew

1993 Joguet Clos de la Dioterie Chinon VV
(the '90 doesn't have the VV designation?)Very floral, red cherry, wood smoke, lovely and elegant. B+

1990 Joguet Clos de la Dioterie Chinon
This might be the ripest wine of the tasting, yet with impeccable balance. Rich black cherry, truffle, poblano pepper A-

1989 Olga Raffault Les Picasses Chinon
Really drinking well. Peppery spice, rich red and black cherry, olives, minerals. A-

1989 Couly-Dutheil Clos de l’Olive Chinon
Much better showing than a previous bottle of this. Cassis, peppers smoke, tree bark. A-/B+,

1985 Breton Les Perrieres Bourgueil
The best word to describe this is weird. There’s a greenness, but not vegetal/pyrazine. I said this is what I’d expect a wine to taste like if raised in totally raw oak. Not for me, C

1982 Olga Raffault Les Picasses Chinon
Just lovely. Black cherry and cassis, fresh bell pepper, cigarsmoke. Integrated and long. A-

Really fun night. Nice crowd who put up with persistent Basset Hound, she never made a good food steal.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

As expected, sounds great and material to make one jealous!

We had dinner with the parents of my son's friend and I took them a respectable Gut Hermannsberg Riesling. But they acted as I feared and put the bottle away for later, choosing instead to serve me some plonkish German Chardonnay. So you fared much much better!

Regardless, nice to see the Bretons showing so well across the years. I guess the next generation is in charge now. You were focused on the older wines, but has anyone been tracking them recently? Any changes?

Ouch, the old put it away for later. And then served something subpar. Sorry about that.

I think there was some discussion about the more recent Bretons (one person came from Canada for tasting, she is a Cab Franc fanatic who works with the Loire trade group a lot), but I missed most of the discussion as it was while grilling. I have some I think '18 Senechal, but put them away without tasting.

By the way, John just emailed to say he did a little research into the '85. First vintage, from purchased grapes and vinified at co-op. So not really representative of estate.

By the way, John just emailed to say he did a little research into the '85. First vintage, from purchased grapes and vinified at co-op. So not really representative of estate.

Yes, I was going to say that you pretty much had an overview of the Catherine and Pierre era, and one could imagine that they got better as the time went on. I remember meeting them in early 00s, and they still came off as people who were curious and open to learning new things and improving their craft. (Although those are probably life-long traits)

[David M. Bueker]

That's one interesting lineup. At least based on what I have tasted the last few years, climate change has demonstrably altered the style of much Loire Cabernet Franc. The herbal elements have been tamped down, and the fruit ripeness amped up. I really like the wines, but they are largely missing the Loire Franc-ness that I enjoy. They are objectively good, but not as representative of what used to be the place.

That's one interesting lineup. At least based on what I have tasted the last few years, climate change has demonstrably altered the style of much Loire Cabernet Franc. The herbal elements have been tamped down, and the fruit ripeness amped up. I really like the wines, but they are largely missing the Loire Franc-ness that I enjoy. They are objectively good, but not as representative of what used to be the place.

I agree. The overall standard has probably improved but with a diminution of typical elegance derived a sense of place at the top level.

What a great tasting. Wish I could have been there!