WTN: Champagne, Riesling, Cabernet, Mourvedre

[David M. Bueker]

TN: OLD CABERNET AND YOUNG MOUREVDRE (PLUS TWO RIESLINGS) - (6/8/2023)

Tasting at my place. All wines were opened about 90 minutes before we started the tasting, but not decanted.

Steve Gellman brought along a 2008 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses that we sipped on while gathering. Delicious stuff that had a fantastic toasty note on top of copious citrus fruit. Bonus points for Laura loving it!

Rieslings

• 2021 Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben-Thanisch) Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Very dry, good depth on the palate, but it needed twenty four hours to show much more than just “solid Riesling.” When I retasted it there was more mid-palate richness to buffer the stone and firm acids. Hold for a very long time.
• 2021 Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben-Thanisch) Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett Auction - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
  Bright, gently sweet, with a bit of a phenolic/chalky edge. Followed this one for a couple of days, and it lost the edge, but gained depth and a floral, peachy finish that was very attractive. This is one for the cellar rather than summertime thirst quenching.

Older Cabernet

• 1994 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley
  Very much alive at age 29, and also quite elegant. Red fruit, a little bit of spice and vanilla, but not at all overbearing like the Napa can be. Tobacco and earth accents - just lovely. Drink up, but enjoy doing so. This is fully resolved, and ready when you are.
• 1994 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
  Like the '94 Silver Oak served alongside this is ready to go, while also being more distinctly Cabernet, as it has hung on to a bit of structure to supplement the mature fruit and earth tones.
• 1994 Arrowood Cabernet Sauvignon Réserve Spéciale - USA, California, Sonoma County
  I last had this wine 17 years ago, and it was getting to maturity then. It's still mature, and what a lovely drink. Mellow red and black fruit, just a trace of tannin, and earthy, smoky, meaty (almost Syrah like) elements made this the most complete of four 1994s served together. This one is on cruise control.
• 1994 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon Anniversary Release - USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
  The richest of four 1994 Cabernets served side-by-side, this also showed a bit of heat until it had been open for an hour or so. Then it settled into a still fruity groove, with some oak and a high-toned, structured finish. It has the depth to continue aging, but not sure it has the balance for it.

Young Mourvedre

• 2019 Halcon Vineyards Mourvèdre - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands
  First of four young Mourvedre wines served side by side, and this was the brightest, with some cranberry edges to the deep red fruit, and also a high toned spiciness. The more air it got the better. I still have a few bottles, and will try to let them rest a while.
• 2019 Carlisle Mourvèdre Radiant Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Bennett Valley
  Second of four young Mourvedre wines served together, this was the most immediately ready to go, and showed all the dark fruit, earth and savory character that I expect and love from the grape. A little tight on the finish perhaps, so if you have more (I don't), give them a couple of years to evolve.
• 2019 Desire Lines Mourvèdre Experimental Series #4: Fred Rides Again - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
  A little more than two years from my prior bottle, this was the third of four young Mourvedre wines served side by side. Opened, like everything else for the tasting, about 90 minutes before we started, it had opened up and was immediately earthy, savory, brothy like a good stew, but made from fruit. Moderate tannins on the back end, and in good balance. Held on to some of this for the next evening, and it was still very fresh and even more savory. Two bottles left of this, and wish I had ten!
• 2017 Once & Future Wine Mataro Oakley Road Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Contra Costa County
  The last of four young Mourvedre wines served side-by-side, this was almost like a barrel sample. So much fruit that it was a bit of a shock following three more savory wines. Going back to it the next evening it was still forward, and sweetly fruity, but some additional elements started to poke through. Very surprising showing that will have me burying my other bottles for a while.

[David M. Bueker]

I wanted to add another thought after re-tasting several of the wines over the last few days - I think Mourvèdre is possibly the best red grape for a warming California. Probably not the far coastal areas, but the spots that don't get as much of that cooling effect seem to be prime real estate for the grape.

Back in the 1980s I didn't care for Silver Oak Cabs very much. For my taste they were taking the Oak part of the name to literally. But that was the Napa bottling, IIRC. I take it the oak isn't as overbearing in the Alexander Valley version?

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

Back in the 1980s I didn't care for Silver Oak Cabs very much. For my taste they were taking the Oak part of the name to literally. But that was the Napa bottling, IIRC. I take it the oak isn't as overbearing in the Alexander Valley version?

-Paul W.

Right. It was more like salt in the dish, rather than a slathered on sauce.

As Richard Eccleston is fond of saying, "in wine, oak should be a seasoning, not a sauce."

My own observation is that hops are the oak of the beer world.

-Paul W.

Mebbe it was auto-correct or wishes, but I didn't see any Champagne mentioned in

WTN: Champagne, Riesling, Cabernet, Mourvedre

[David M. Bueker]

Mebbe it was auto-correct or wishes, but I didn't see any Champagne mentioned in

WTN: Champagne, Riesling, Cabernet, Mourvedre

It's in the lead in sentences. I'll bold it for your eyes.

It's in the lead in sentences. I'll bold it for your eyes.

I didn't realise that was Champagne

[David M. Bueker]

It’s a long standing Tete de Cuvée.

I wanted to add another thought after re-tasting several of the wines over the last few days - I think Mourvèdre is possibly the best red grape for a warming California. Probably not the far coastal areas, but the spots that don't get as much of that cooling effect seem to be prime real estate for the grape.

I would, even after 38 years of Edmunds St John, second your assessment of the suitability of Mourvedre in California, with, perhaps, only one caveat (which will certainly lead to some corollaries): Farming will be almost everything. If you give Mourvedre the opportunity, it can really be sublime, and soul-stirring. It will require vision and dedication, and an open-minded approach. And the "Farming" must include choice of site. (The'18 Halcon was a tremendous revelation to me!)

I was fortunate enough to be able, in my first year of ESJ, to find, and work with Mourvedre from 65-year-old vines at Brandlin Ranch, on Mt. Veeder, which were, to a very great extent, what gave us a foothold in the market: those were grapes that needed nothing but my devout attention, which they utterly commanded, to produce very special wine. They taught me an awful lot about what I know of winemaking. The brothers Brandlin became uncles to me.

The 87 ESJ Mourvèdre is one of the greatest wines of my lifetime, probably the greatest new world wine, certainly the greatest Mourvèdre I’ve had.

So whatever magic was going on then and there, I tip my cap to you, sir.

[David M. Bueker]

The 87 ESJ Mourvèdre is one of the greatest wines of my lifetime, probably the greatest new world wine, certainly the greatest Mourvèdre I’ve had.

Steve’s’94 and ‘95 Mourvèdre bottlings (especially the ‘94) are touchstones for my appreciation of the grape. It’s what sent me looking for Tempier. Still fascinated with Mourvèdre from California, France, and wherever else someone grows it with care.

The 87 ESJ Mourvèdre is one of the greatest wines of my lifetime, probably the greatest new world wine, certainly the greatest Mourvèdre I’ve had.

Steve’s’94 and ‘95 Mourvèdre bottlings (especially the ‘94) are touchstones for my appreciation of the grape. It’s what sent me looking for Tempier. Still fascinated with Mourvèdre from California, France, and wherever else someone grows it with care.

That’s really cool, I wasn’t sure if those famous 80’s ESJ Mourvèdre were “one-offs”. That said, I don’t think I ever came across any other ESJ Mourvèdre besides the 87 (unlike the various Syrahs, Cote Sauvage, R&G, Robles, etc). Were the Mourvèdre cuvées always comparatively small production?

[Jenise]

I wanted to add another thought after re-tasting several of the wines over the last few days - I think Mourvèdre is possibly the best red grape for a warming California. Probably not the far coastal areas, but the spots that don't get as much of that cooling effect seem to be prime real estate for the grape.

Paso's east side would be perfect for it.