by Jay Miller » Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:50 pm
With all the talk about Spanish wines when I walked past Tribeca Wine Merchants on the way to Chambers St. and saw they were doing a tasting of Spanish wines I felt it my duty to listen to Victor and actually try some current vintages (after all, it's possible that they've done a 180 from all prior vintages).
Bear in mind, these notes are coming from someone whose benchmarks for red wines are things like Fourrier and Drouhin Burgundies or Clos Roche Blanche and Breton Loires. I also have no idea if these were among the wines given high scores in the WA as scores were not posted.
2005 Haras de Pirque Chardonnay (Chile) 9.99
Very attractive nose, touch of sulphur on the un or minimally oaked non-malo palate. Quite nice, reminded me of the Montelena Chardonnay at a fraction of the price. B-
2005 Muga Rioja Blanco 14.99
90% Viura, 10% Malasia
Took some coaxing for a more complex but subtler nose to emerge. High acid, called out for some food, maybe shellfish. I wish I'd had this before the Chardonnay. B-
2005 Mano a Mano $10.99
Horrible. The second vintage I've been subjected to this wine and I think it managed to get worse. Overextracted, overoaked, undrinkable. D
2004 Castell del Remel, Gotim Bru $13.99
More of the same, though it doesn't go to quite the same excesses. C-
2004 Cervoles $29.99
This is coming as a relief. All the same flaws (which are shared IMO with the majority of the new wave of Spanish wine) but at levels that allow the wine to be enjoyed. C+
2003 El Nido $125
Rich oak and chocolate concoction. Screams, "I'm an expensive wine, like me, like me!" I don't. But I'll grant this wine the accolade that if you're a fan of the rich creamy Bryant Family style of wine (I'm not) you'll probably like this too. C
Then I walked into their back room and blew the last of my May wine budget on a bottle of '71 Drouhin Corton with a great fill. Personally, I blame the Wine Advocate and the Squires board. I never would have been in the store if not for the Spanish scoring controversy.
My rating system is totally subjective and lower than most. I make no claims explicit or implicit to objectivity. It's just my reaction to the wine that day.
A - This wine is great!
+Oh my god! Nothing can be this good! But it is!
Magnificent, complete, glorious
-This is all I can ask for in a wine
B - This wine is good!
+This wine is really good!
This wine is quite good!
-This wine is pretty good
C - This is wine!
+This wine is ok
This wine is drinkable
-This wine is flawed
D - Is this wine?!
+Wow, did they mean it to taste like this?
They couldn\'t possibly have meant it to taste like this
-Ick, yuck, phooey!