WTN: 1996 Hartenberg Estate Shiraz (Stellenbosch, South Africa)

[David M. Bueker]

Several years ago I won this bottle in a raffle to raise money for charity. I know nothing about it, except what's on the label.

What's in the bottle is quite good, although if I were served it blind I would likely guess left-bank Bordeaux. There's tobacco, black fruit and herb on the nose, and on the palate it has a pleasing austerity with solid, evolved cedar, tobacco, black cherry and iron character. This does not taste like any shiraz or syrah I have ever had, and in my tasting experience its closest sibling would be Sociando-Mallet. Go figure. But it is very tasty, and it was a great accompaniment to my home made burgers, so all's well that drinks well.

Anybody know anything about this wine?

I've never had the Hartenberg, but I must say that this is very much the style of South African reds - at least the better ones. South African wines, to me, marry the very best of warm-climate opulent fruit (New World paradigm) and the austere, mineral/earthy character (Old World paradigm) into an often seamless, integrated package. The country is consistently my favourite source of Southern Hemisphere wines. Glad you enjoyed it.

I know a little bit about it .

It's interesting, we get occasional comments that young Hartenberg Shiraz tastes like cab. Oh well. The '96 comes from an era when Hartenberg were struggling with TCA in the cellar. When I've had clean bottles from that era, however, they've been awfully, awfully good.

[David M. Bueker]

No TCA here, and it was indeed very good. There clearly must be something about the site or the winemaking that lends itself to a more elegant expression of Shiraz.

No TCA here, and it was indeed very good. There clearly must be something about the site or the winemaking that lends itself to a more elegant expression of Shiraz.

The syrah site is partially terra rossa and partially laterite ("kaffeeklip"), which is a dark red, very pebbly gravel that lends searing minerality to the wine (the Hartenberg "Gravel Hill" is entirely from the laterite site). The terra rossa is northwest facing (the hottest exposure), the kaffeeklip is east-northeast facing, in a relatively warm area of Stellenbosch.

I think the main factors in complexity/elegance in Hartenberg shiraz are small but not miniscule cropping (undercropping can lead to too much tannin extraction--and the high winds/high temp summer days ensure those tannins are blocky) and gentle handling; Hartenberg trains its pickers to sort in the vineyard, which means less bruised fruit comes in and the fruit is less handled.

Anybody know anything about this wine?

David

I take it you've looked at http://www.hartenbergestate.com ?

They don't have notes on the 96 but details on three more recent vintages gives details of the vineyard, and contact details.

If you have a specific question, I can pop in and ask them.

Peter--say hi to James for me when you pop in...I won't be back to the Cape until July...for those of you who haven't met James Browne of Hartenberg Estate, he truly is the Godfather of wine .

[David M. Bueker]

In addition to the wealth of great informaiton provided by Jake, I was curious if anyone had experience with this particular wine. I would also love to know the current retail price point, as I would like to purchase current vintages.

Peter - I would love to know what they see as the aging potential of this wine. I think I hit it at its sweet spot, but curiosity abounds. Also, if you do happen to drop in please be sure to let them know how good I though this wine was.

In addition to the wealth of great informaiton provided by Jake, I was curious if anyone had experience with this particular wine. I would also love to know the current retail price point, as I would like to purchase current vintages.

Peter - I would love to know what they see as the aging potential of this wine. I think I hit it at its sweet spot, but curiosity abounds. Also, if you do happen to drop in please be sure to let them know how good I though this wine was.

Current retail price point is about $26. We import Hartenberg for every state...except Massachusetts. I believe River Falls Wine Company stocks the wine, as the owner is a friend of James's.

My view on the aging is that the 2003 is more complete than the 2001 and will be better in 2010 than the 2001 will be in 2008. It's still new world syrah from small wood, however, so the Edmunds Exception does not apply; I don't see the current releases going much further that about 10 years.

[quote="
Peter - I would love to know what they see as the aging potential of this wine. I think I hit it at its sweet spot, but curiosity abounds. Also, if you do happen to drop in please be sure to let them know how good I though this wine was.[/quote]

Hi David

I went to Hartenberg Estate today and spoke with winemaker Jaco van der Merwe. He joined in 2001 so the 96 was made by a previous winemaker and the winery have none of the 96 left. In response to your question he says that if it is drinking well now, he wouldn't age it any longer but enjoy it now.

He says they are making the wines differently now, less tannic more fruit forward needed less keeping before being pleasant to drink

The current vintages are the 03 'Stork' and 04 standard. The 04 "is a bigger wine, can can be kept 8-10 years." The 03 "is not so big, easier drinking."

He twisted my arm (OK, not much) and -- on your behalf -- I tasted the 04 standard bottling, which was soft and ripe and very pleasant drinking. 90 Rand at cellar

The 2003 is a single vineyard wine named 'The Stork', more tannins, chocolate and coffee flavours and spices. 250R at cellar

There will be a new premium single vineyard Shiraz wine released in 2008, the 2006 "Gravel Hills" - "more elegant and feminine." This used to be made solely for the Cape Winemakers Guild Auction - price not yet decided but probably in region 350R.

Jaco says Shiraz is the Hartenberg flagship variety. He says the vintage started early this year with early ripening varieties being picked much earlier than usual. They started on 24 Jan wth Sauvignon Blanc about 2-3 weeks earlier than usual, then Pinotage, they will probably recommence harvesting Shiraz tomorrow. They were not picking Monday or today because of the torrential rains we had over the weekend.

The crop is less this year as a result of high winds during flowering, but it is looking very good.

I asked if he felt like replying on this thread but Jaco gave the impression that it was the province of the marketing department and they had their own wayof working -- but they realised people liked to talk to the winemaker and so he will be visiting the US in the coming 12 months and looks forward to meeting as many people as possible.

Hope thats OK

Jaco says he will check the files for any info on the 1996 vintage and will send me that and also what they generally have on Shiraz at Hartenberg.

When I get it, I'll send it on to you.

He will also pass on Jakes message.

Sounds like some good contact there Peter. Remember Canada, we drink wine too!!

[David M. Bueker]

Peter,

Great info. Thanks so much!

Sounds like some good contact there Peter. Remember Canada, we drink wine too!!

Bob, I'm only reporting what was said to me.