1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia - USA, California, Napa Valley (4/24/2023)
Today would have been my father’s 80th birthday. Pulled this bottle from his cellar for a quiet memorial dinner. There has been a conventional belief that 1997 was the vintage where Napa went to the dark side. After sampling numerous 1997s over the last few months I have to disagree with that. 1997 was an excellent vintage that set in motion changes that were made in attempts to emulate it, and that’s where things went wrong. 1998-2000 were not years for big and balanced. Attempts to achieve that led to the blueberry milkshake excesses of the early to mid 2000s. This wine had excellent balance, with still prominent black fruit, as well as silky palate presence and emerging tobacco and earthy notes. There was sufficient structure for balance, but it was easily ignored, like a good referee - necessary but unobtrusive. My mom and I both loved the wine, though it would have been better shared by three.