2021 Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (4/1/2023)
There has been speculation about what would happen to the Merkelbach wines now that the folks at Selbach-Oster have fully taken over from the aging brothers. If this wine is any indication the answer is not much. If I did not know that there had been a change I don’t think I would have suspected one. It tastes like a Merkelbach wine. It’s old school in terms of size. It carries the weight of a Kabinett from the pre-2003 era (a year that to me marked the beginning of the super-sized German Rieslings, declassified from well into higher pradikats). It’s also well mannered in terms of its acidity. Certainly bright and fresh, but by no means aggressive, it leaves the enamel on my teeth, and is easy to drink with or without food, showing the typical red berry, white peach and spice flavors of the Wurzgarten.