Took a long break for lunch today, went to Mark’s for a Corton tasting. Started with charcuterie (Smoking Goose Duck/Pork blackberry sausage, duck rillettes, mousse truffee, and prosciutto di Parma), and a big hunk of Beaufort, later came roast chicken and potatoes.
There were definitely some divided opinions on the wines today
2019 Ch. Montrose
OK, so this isn’t Corton (though if you include Ch. can make an anagram Meh Cortons-luckily they weren’t).
Young primary, big black currant fruit framed with notes of smoke and espresso. Mark wants to do a 2019 Bdx tasting, I said I’m available in fall of 2043, Probably A- potential.
2006 Hospice de Beaune Corton Dr Peste (Faiveley)
Abundant oak, tight, closed fruit, oak, and then a bit of oak. B- Maybe in 20 years…
1999 Jadot Corton Pougets
Someone thought this was corked, I didn’t get that , but it was super tight and closed, with a little medicinal herb note over what fruit there was. Revisited (accidentally) at end it had really opened up. I wrote B-/B? When it went around, but at revisit B+ and climbing
1997 Jadot Corton Pougets
I don’t generally like 1997s, but Jacques Lardiere seems to have overachieved with almost every cuvee in Jadot stable. This is ready, luscious, with sweet red berry fruits and notes of earth and truffles. Really in a good place. B+/A-
1995 Jadot Corton Pougets
Some hard tannins, there’s some lovely fruit and complexity hiding under all the structure. The 1997 is funner today, but in 10-15 think this will be great/classic. B for today
1990 Jadot Corton Pougets
Again, Jadot avoids the overripeness that the vintage often shows. There’s a light roasted quality, but it’s not dominant, and there’s a nice complex melange of coffee, earth, and cumin aromas. B+
1988 Prince Florent de Merode Corton Marechaudes
This is one where I think I liked much less than others. Lifted aromas, and there’s a hint of maderization that I have trouble getting past. There are some good bones there, but while others raved I felt I’d have liked more freshness. B-
1988 Jadot Corton Pougets
Lovely, balanced, young but showing tertiary complexity, cocoa and truffles/mushrooms. A-/B+
1988 Prince Florent de Merode Corton Clos du Roi
I liked this so much more than the Marechaudes. Complete, red fruit and good dirt, long. In a great place and likely to stay there for decades. A-
1969 Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton Bressandes
Very volatile nose when first tasted, lots of decaying leaves, I was convinced it was DOA , then John persuaded me to have a retaste. It had calmed down quite a bit, while I still got the dead leav es I also got some fruit, cinnamon, and mustard seed. Some people’s favorite, not mine, but I quite enjoyed on round 2, B/B+
Last wine served blind, and I had no clue (other than I didn’t care much for it), VA on the nose, with citrus peel and cloves. On palate it comes across as hot, with roasted black fruit, burnt rubber. Never heard of this before,2004 Pastelero de la Maria i en Valentí Priorat C+
Really fun lunch, though I was almost totally spitting and would have loved to actually drink most of the Cortons. Another reminder that Corton needs time.,
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.