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WTN: Many Corton, plus killer Champagne and 1912 Madeira

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Many Corton, plus killer Champagne and 1912 Madeira

by Dale Williams » Fri Feb 10, 2023 5:03 pm

Up to Croton for the first in a couple of red Corton tastings. John had a nice spread of cheeses (Robiola,. St Andre, Gouda, Manchego, Humboldt Fog, and more) and mousse truffee, I brought some Smoking Goose charcuterie (saucisson rouge, spruce tip bresaola, culatello). Then we finished with John’s great short ribs accented with citrus zest.


2000 Lanson Noble
Some divided opinions on this but I was definitely on pro side. Elegant mousse, just a little hazelnut oxidative note, rich apple fruit with brioche and orange zest. B+


2005 Corton “Bressandes”-Domaine Tollot-Beaut
Very young, wood spice, lots of structure. B for drinking now but potential for excellence if it absorbs the oak.


1999 Corton “Clos de Roy”-Antonin Guyon
Roasted, some brett, not much freshness C+

1999 Corton “Bressandes”-Domaine Chandon de Briailles
Excellent, sweet red and black cherry fruit, floral and sandalwood aromas. With some air a pleasant game meat note. A-

1996 Corton “Bressandes”-Domaine Tollot-Beaut
High acids (as expected), some barnyard, autumn leaves. I liked, one person hated. B

1993 Corton “Clos du Roi”- Dubreuil-Fontaine
Racy elegant floral. Black cherry with an intriguing integrated brown sugar note, yet fresh. A-/B+

1993 Corton “Grancey”- Louis Latour

Spice, cumin seed,. Savory B+

2014 Laval Les Longues Violes Champagne
Stunning, powerful yet sprightly. Peaches, spice, chalk. WOTN. A-/A
This is very old vine, organic for 50+ years.

1985 Corton “Bressandes”-Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine
Fresh elegant baking spices over red fruit B+/A-

1983 Corton “Bressandes”- Joseph Drouhin
Tons of sediment. Dark plum, cocoa, nuts. Some liked more than me, good bones but compared to a bottle a few years ago a bit dull and advanced. Still, drinkable. B/B-

1976 Corton “Bressandes”-Domaine Tollot-Beaut
Darker fruit, tea, forest floor, very mature but holding on. B

1972 Corton “Bressandes”- Joseph Drouhin
Ethereal, elegant , with red cherry accented with mushrooms, Earl Grey, and spice. Long and seamless. A-

1912 D'Oliveiras Verdelho Vintage Madeira
Christmas fruit cake, molasses, complex and long. Lifted nose, long surprisingly dry finish. A-/B+

Quite the night. Sorry I was mostly spitting!

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Many Corton, plus killer Champagne and 1912 Madeira

by Rahsaan » Fri Feb 10, 2023 5:48 pm

Nice work. I saw John post about it on Twitter. Any discussion of how climate change is affecting Corton? More forward?

But funny that a Champagne was WOTN!
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Many Corton, plus killer Champagne and 1912 Madeira

by Dale Williams » Sat Feb 11, 2023 4:32 pm

No real discussion about climate change in Corton (as only the 05 could be considered a modern warm vintage). We did talk a little about climate change in Champagne.
I just noticed the '15 version of the Laval is being offered by Crush. For $620!
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Many Corton, plus killer Champagne and 1912 Madeira

by David M. Bueker » Sat Feb 11, 2023 4:39 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I just noticed the '15 version of the Laval is being offered by Crush. For $620!


Keeping up with the Collins...

That Corton "Grancey" has always been a bit of a hidden gem in the otherwise lackluster Latour portfolio. I've had several vintages of it that drank extremely well, especially considering expectations.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Many Corton, plus killer Champagne and 1912 Madeira

by Dale Williams » Sat Feb 11, 2023 4:51 pm

I'm not a LLatour fan, so had low expectations, but others with more experience said exact same thing as you- a standout in that portfolio

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