The stated goal was to convince Lyle of the glories of Austrian Riesling. But it was really an excuse to eat drink and be merry. So while Mr. Clooney and Mr. Pitt spent their time outside the restaurant playing with cameras, we went inside for the serious business. Jay started us off-theme with NV Étienne Calsac Les Rocheforts, which was a perfect Blanc de Blancs, a good dose of firm juicy fruit and fine classy structure, that’s how one settles in to Chinatown.
Lyle also had a few German contributions, so we went back in time with a feathery-light 2001 P. Licht Bergweiler Erben Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese Trocken. Would have been a lovely accompaniment on its own to a meal (and really sang with the salt and pepper shrimp), but as one might have expected, the bigger boned Austrians muscled it out of my attention.
2020 Kühling-Gillot Nierstein Riesling was shades of the Mosel via the Rheinhessen. Much lighter than one expects for the region, although still fairly broad and the flavors hinted tropical.
Jayson’s last bottle of 1998 Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling Alte Reben was certainly ready to drink. A nice evolved bottle of evolved golden wine. Not dead and there was enjoyment for those who enjoyed it. But no need to wait.
I thought one might sense a through line with the 2011 Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling Reserve, but this was a completely different universe. Bright linear and elegant. Not the most stuffing, but that was part of my plan to convince Lyle that not all Austrian wine is ponderous!
Also no through line detected with the 2019 Gobelsburg Gaisberg Riesling, which was absolutely delicious, filled with more body and girth but still plenty of elegance. That said, a touch young for me to enjoy fully, with the other more aged bottles on the table.
As our offering to the gods of Why Did I Cellar This for 2 Decades, Marty presented a corked bottle of 2001 Knoll Ried Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd.
2007 Prager Wachstum Bodenstein Riesling Smaragd was one of the highlights for me. Broader than the Gaisbergs, but so wonderfully delicate, mellowed with age, a perfect moment of harmony for my tastes.
Another highlight was the 2013 Hirtzberger Singerriedel Riesling Smaragd which was the full package. Power, elegance, depth, grace. It made it difficult to focus and appreciate the 2014 Hirtzberger Hochrain Riesling Smaragd, which would have been perfectly delicious on its own.
And lest the peking duck clash with Riesling, we drank 1999 Texier Hermitage. For my tastes, this was wide open in that almost-lewd way where it feels like it’s gushing and showing all of its secrets. And yes, that’s a good thing!