WTN: The Grézeaux Havens

[David M. Bueker]

2020 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (1/13/2023)
I have a sneaking suspicion that the 2020 Grezeaux will initially seem too ripe for the uber-traditionalist fans of this domaine. Even with zero air it shows a lot of ripe berry fruit, but then a tobacco note kicks in, and after that a deep vein of acidity that harnesses the fruit. After a few sips it feels more like Chinon, and strong finishing tannins ask for patience to resolve. The bottle has only been open for 10-15 minutes, but I am definitely enjoying myself. More to come!

...the 2020 Grezeaux will initially seem too ripe for the uber-traditionalist fans of this domaine...

I think this is going to be a running theme all over Europe. The notion of 'tradition' changing before our eyes. Imagine the future when the young wine drinkers of today think back on today's wines 'of the past' that they grew up on. Of course who knows where things will have evolved in the meantime!

[David M. Bueker]

...the 2020 Grezeaux will initially seem too ripe for the uber-traditionalist fans of this domaine...

I think this is going to be a running theme all over Europe. The notion of 'tradition' changing before our eyes. Imagine the future when the young wine drinkers of today think back on today's wines 'of the past' that they grew up on. Of course who knows where things will have evolved in the meantime!

It's going to be a wild ride. I always find it funny when people decry "stylistic changes" at historic wineries, when it's largely about climate change (and sometimes having to replace casks that are hundreds of years old).

It's going to be a wild ride. I always find it funny when people decry "stylistic changes" at historic wineries, when it's largely about climate change (and sometimes having to replace casks that are hundreds of years old).

Climate change is definitely a big part of the story. But isn't it also the case that winemakers have been seeking ways to make their wines more approachable younger. Even for those who like aging wine, this is not necessarily a bad thing as it provides more options, and the details are always important. But regardless, nothing stays static and 'traditions' always evolve. Although it does seem to be evolving quickly these days!

[David M. Bueker]

Decided to open another bottle tonight, and what a 180 turn. Four hours of air, and the tobacco and earth tones are blowing me away. Not sure how to explain the shift from climate change modern to old school traditional, but it appears that the force of Loire Cabernet Franc is there. It just needs the right moment.

Go figure!