I had the pleasure of joining Robert D. and his crew for a Spätburgunder dinner last night.
The selections for the main meal are below. Too many delicious wines to take detailed notes, but I will say I was very impressed by the Mosel offerings. All 3 Stein Spätburgunders were juicy and delicious (although the 14 was in the prime zone and the 18 needed more evolution). Happy to finally taste Dostert and there was more depth and substance but still plenty of joy.
Twardowski Ardoise was similarly delicious in that pure juicy mold. Although we had a nice discussion about value relative to Burgundy, and when I see Crush selling the 2019 for $130, I find that very poor value and not a good fit with my wallet. But it is delicious and apparently it sells out, so more power to the market.
The Molitor Graacher Himmelreich was oaky, ponderous, not fun and should probably be planted to riesling. The Steinmetz was also more serious but very delicious.
06 Mobitz was great, still holding on well, a fine feather of a wine. Lyle said the Mobitz winemaking had improved by 2014, but I found that Kanzel much less enjoyable for drinking now. The Walter wines did not convince, a bit too much oak. One could charge the Fürst with the same crime, but I thought it did much better and was a nice resolved wine.
I really liked the 2018 Enderle & Moll Ida, but then I generally really like their wines. Who knows how the domaine will evolve in the future. 2018 Wasenhaus Möhlin was also really good. Both are impressive finely-poised wines.
The Keller was not very popular with anyone (although Eric A. seemed to like more than most). Felt glossy and lacking substance. Opposite problem for Ziereisen and Heger, which were too pumped up with oak and presence.
After the 'official' study, out came the bonus bottles. I couldn't keep track of them all, but it was refreshing to have some riesling, including a 2016 Keller RR, although it required some palate re-adjustment. Perhaps my favorite was Lyle's 2015 Jürgen von der Mark Pinot Noir Suis-je Gentille Ainsi. Gentle, light, fragrant, elegant. A bit of the slippery bacon grease note, which some might consider a 'flaw'. But all in all in worked very well, late into the night!
Spätburgunderstudy | Vinegar Hill House | December 4th 2022
Spätburgunder Rose Welcome
2020 Soilpimp Selections Falkenstein Herrenberg Zuckerberg (Saar)
2020 Lukas Hammelmann Roter Berg Rose (Pfalz)
Butter Lettuce Salad
2014 Stein Spätburgunder Waechter (Mosel)
2015 Stein Spätburgunder Waechter (Mosel)
2018 Stein Pinot Noir “Waechter” (Mosel)
2019 Jonas Dostert Spätburgunder 164 / 237 (Upper Mosel)
Chicken Liver Mousse
2017 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noir Ardoise (Mosel)
2018 Markus Molitor Graacher Himmelreich*** (Mosel)
2018 Steinmetz Kestener Herrenberg Pinot Noir** (Mosel)
2019 Leipolds Pinot Noir Trocken (Franken)
Roast Chicken
2006 Mobitz Kapelle (Baden)
2007 Josef Walter “J” Centgrafenberg Frühburgunder (Franken)
2013 Josef Walter “J” Centgrafenberg (Franken)
2013 Fürst Centgrafenberg GG (Franken)
Red Waddle Pork Chop
2014 Mobitz Kanzel (Baden)
2019 Wasenhaus Kanzel (Baden
2018 Enderle & Moll Ida (Baden)
2019 Saalwächter Assmannshausen (Rheinhessen)
Cheese
2015 Keller Frauenberg GG (Rheinhessen)
2015 Ziereisen Jaspis Alte Reben (Baden)
2018 Dr Heger Schlossberg GG (Baden)
2018 Wasenhaus Möhlin (Baden)