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WTN: Grosgrain

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WTN: Grosgrain

by Jenise » Mon Nov 14, 2022 1:08 pm

Back around 2014 an L. A. attorney named Matt Austin and his designer wife moved to Washington to take up winemaking. They bought a dillapidated house on five acres planted to mostly nebbiolo and aglianico and have since added 8 acres of mostly white grapes. Their goal is to produce balanced wines with good acidity and modest alcohols at the fresher end of the spectrum (than what is typical in WA).

My first encounter with a Grosgrain wine was a barely-pink lemberger pet nat which all the geeks I knew went crazy over, myself included. I've since picked up every white from him I see, including a wonderful albarino and a barely-pink grenache rose. I was mostly unfamiliar with the reds. So when I learned he was going to do a dinner at a local wine bar called The Vault, I signed up. Here are the wines he poured:

2020 Grosgrain Semillon Les Collines Vineyard
Medium yellow with bright flavors of quince and yellow apple. Bright and thankfully not as rich as many WA semillons are, with a long finish. 50% of the grapes were fermented on the skins and the wine was aged in clay amphorae, concrete egg, neutral barrels and SS. Only 12.4% alcohol. Perfectly paired with spot prawns and baby chanterelles on a tangy white sauce. I ordered some. $30.

2018 Grosgrain Vineyards Chardonnay French Creek Vineyard Yakima Valley Matt's first vintage. And where I found a previous bottle of this 15 months ago to be "unapologetically new world", this one was lighter in color and, blind, I'd have guessed Macon. It leans French, but sunny warmer France with classic chardonnay nose and flavors. Liked this a lot, I ordered some. 13.2% alcohol. $33.

2020 Grosgrain Vineyards Petit Grosgrain Walla Walla Valley Red Blend
Deep garnet red, this is a Cotes du Rhonish blend which changes with every vintage, and in 2020 the syrah and grenache were joined by tempranillo. It's a balanced and fetching combination, especially at 13.8% alcohol. That I didn't order any was just a cellar decision--I don't need more medium bodied American reds. $39.

2020 Grosgrain Vineyards Grenache Red Heaven Vineyard Red Mountain
Very unusual in the glass: pale, frumpy brownish salmon red color and very cloudy/obviously unfiltered with red apple skin nose and ciderish flavors. Very different from the vivid red-currant light red of the '18 a friend brought to a blind tasting a few years back that had a table of afficionados guessing Sicilian frappato. Anyway, I didn't dislike this--and in fact I asked for a second pour--and there's increasingly a place for lighter reds at my table, but at the same time this isn't what I love about grenache, and others present who aren't familiar with grenache per se were disappointed that it wasn't a classic style red wine. A deliberate and brave choice by the winemaker, but it's a handsell and doomed for regular retail. $39.

2018 Grosgrain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley
Balanced Cabernet typicity with medium intensity and tannins. Fits in well with this winemaker's goal of making fresh but sophisticated wines for current drinking, though no rush on this one. Liked it but at $50+, I have better options.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Grosgrain

by David M. Bueker » Mon Nov 14, 2022 6:04 pm

So these were the wines from the dinner with the IG worthy pork belly!
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Re: WTN: Grosgrain

by Jenise » Mon Nov 14, 2022 9:00 pm

Yes indeed!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Grosgrain

by Bruce K » Tue Nov 15, 2022 11:10 am

Thanks for your tasting notes. I was in Walla Walla last month, for the first time in years, so I tried to make a point of visiting some of the newer wineries taking a lower-alcohol, lower-oak approach than the norm out there. Grosgrain was one of them. I liked their wines and bought a couple, but I was a little put off by what seemed to me to be a bit of a snooty vibe at the winery (though it was in a beautiful spot). Other newer wineries that I liked a bit better (for the wines as well as the "vibe") included Elephant Seven, Echolands, Mongata and Devium.
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Re: WTN: Grosgrain

by Jenise » Tue Nov 15, 2022 2:59 pm

Bruce K wrote:Thanks for your tasting notes. I was in Walla Walla last month, for the first time in years, so I tried to make a point of visiting some of the newer wineries taking a lower-alcohol, lower-oak approach than the norm out there. Grosgrain was one of them. I liked their wines and bought a couple, but I was a little put off by what seemed to me to be a bit of a snooty vibe at the winery (though it was in a beautiful spot). Other newer wineries that I liked a bit better (for the wines as well as the "vibe") included Elephant Seven, Echolands, Mongata and Devium.


Interesting. Haven't visited the winery, but certainly didn't detect anything snooty about the winemaker. Of the others you mention, I purchased a syrah and a syrah blend from Elephant Seven because I'd heard the winery mentioned somewhere and they were only $20 ea, but I didn't care for either. Echolands and Mongata I don't know at all--can you give me a bit more information on them? Devium--hell yes. I have had several and am very impressed.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Grosgrain

by Bruce K » Tue Nov 15, 2022 5:32 pm

Echolands was founded by Doug Frost, who is both a Master of Wine and a Master Sommelier. I particularly liked their Les Collines Syrah and their Rubrum bottling, which is a Bordeaux blend from several Walla Walla vineyards.

Mongata is a Walla Walla unicorn -- a winery and a vineyard combined in the same location. The owners own both. The vineyard is Resurgent, which is located up the Walla Walla river at over 1400 feet elevation, maybe five miles southeast of the rocks. But the vineyard itself is fairly rocky too so it's got some of that quality but with a little cooler climate. The owners are relatively new, but Peter Devison is making their wines -- a Syrah and a Cabernet Sauvignon from Resurgent -- and I liked them quite a bit.

Have you had the Devium sans souffre Mourvedre? I though it was awesome.

Whatever "snootiness" I may have found from Grosgrain was probably due to whoever was running the tasting room at the time we were there (or maybe the mood I was in at the time) -- I didn't meet the owners. I do like their approach to winemaking.

Thanks, I'll make a point of looking for those wineries. I'm truly a Peter Devison fan. No re the Devium Mourvedre, but I've heard about it. If you do riesling, Devium's from Lewis Vineyard (the highest elevation vineyard in the state) is a real head-turner.

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