It was a long time since I was by restaurant Guy Savoy. Shame on me ! We go there the day the red guide is officially published and a friend of mine, a writer on wine, comes with the guide to show us what we did not know already. It reminds me that I was by Guy Savoy the day his third star was official. The atmosphere in the restaurant was unique, made of an incredible joy.
We are four at our table, this friend writer, a friend who cooks at an unbelievable level, and a man whom I did not know, who writes on a forum where I write.
When we arrive, a champagne Henriot Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1989 is immediately opened. At the first sip, I cry to get some food, as to drink a champagne with the mouth of the morning is not proper. On a delicious foie gras, the champagne begins to live. And it is great. I had had recently the 1988 which was a monument. The 1989 is more subtle and romantic. Two different expressions of a delicious champagne.
We take the menu “prestige” which consists in :
mini millefeuille d’hiver / Coquilles Saint-jacques « crues-cuites », pommes de terre et poireaux / saumon à la vapeur, jus « anis-réglisse », brochette de légumes en côtes / veau cuit lentement en bouillon, chou farci, quelques racines en compote / soupe d’artichaut à la truffe noire, brioche feuilletée aux champignons et truffes / pigeon « poché-grillé », salsifis et saveurs d’agrumes / fromages affinés / exotique / fondant chocolat au pralin feuilleté et crème chicorée.
I prefer to say it directly, Guy Savoy is my preferred chef. I feel in perfect harmony with his philosophy of cooking. This is not a blind love, as I did not appreciate that much the veal, for which Guy took the precaution to announce that it was special. But some other dishes are so extraordinary that I am in a total love. The chips of beetroot with slices of truffle represent a recipe by which you can only say : “perfect”. There is nothing to change, as for the artichoke soup, which is an institution. I love the cook, and I love the chef, whose personality is fantastic. He comes to talk and we exchange nice comments. This is a pleasure.
The Corton Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray 1997, when I take the first sip, is intellectual. I need to call a set of codes to appreciate it. But when the scallops are there it is a delight. On the raw scallops, the wine is sweet. On the cooked scallops, the wine gains length, dryness and subtlety. The adaptability of the wine is spectacular.
I must have a sixth sense for situations, as I had ordered a Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc 2001. And this Rayas “is” liquorice. You certainly know better than I do the use of “is”. You say : Kirk Douglas “is” Vincent Van Gogh, or Liz Taylor “is” Cleopatra. So, this Rayas “is” liquorice. And with the salmon cooked with liquorice in powder, it creates an unbelievable combination. Magnificent. What is very curious is that the Rayas is still liquorice, even on the veal, which creates another interesting combination.
The next wine is a suggestion of Eric Mancio, the famous sommelier : Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges Domaine de l’Arlot 1989. It happens on the famous soup, but it remains on its chair. This wine is a correct definition of what NSG should be, but is it very scholar, good pupil. It does not create a true emotion. Agreeable to drink, but not more.
The Jurançon Clos Uroulat Charles Hours 1996 is the choice of my young friends. This is a fantasy. It is full of colours, full of flavours, made of kiwi, mangoes, grapefruit, litchi, and many other exoticisms. At this moment of the lunch, I would have probably preferred a more quiet wine, and with more age.
The writer had to leave and Guy sat at our table, as I wanted to talk to prepare a dinner with huge wines for which he will make the cook. And we talked about many subjects. I am a pure fan of his way of approaching gastronomy.
The service is perfect and sometimes full of humour, as they do not want to be uniquely strict. We have had some combinations which were purely amazing.
This lunch was a piece of heaven.