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WTN: Gaisberg and Dolls

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David M. Bueker

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WTN: Gaisberg and Dolls

by David M. Bueker » Wed Aug 24, 2022 7:28 pm

2019 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling 1ÖTW Ried Gaisberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal (8/24/2022)
Great dry Riesling is a bit of a holy grail, even for me, the guy who fell in love with Riesling because of an Auslese.

The single greatest dry Riesling I have ever tasted came from Alsace, but the most consistent high level in dry Riesling for me is in Austria. From the basic regionals through the top single vineyard wines, Austrian Riesling delivers precision, grace and depth of flavor that cannot be equaled anywhere else these days.

Case in point is this 2019 Gaisberg from Schloss Gobelsburg. Saline, stony, and still richly fruity, it maintains an edge all the way through the palate. It’s a cold knife, drawn slowly across the tongue, but on the flat. It doesn’t cut, but it leaves a tingle as it passes by.
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