2017 Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Keefer Ranch Russian River Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (8/7/2022)
This is a shapeshifter, presenting itself differently from moment to moment, from sip to sip. My initial impression was how fruity it was, but a subsequent sip was all salty mineral austerity. My wife found it too austere, but kept trying it, wondering how I found so much fruit. Sometimes I did, and sometimes I didn’t. Temperature did not seem to influence the impression. The fruit showed up whether the wine was freshly cool from the fridge, and the minerality could be severe both cold and when it was warmer. I really don’t know what to make of this.