Saturday I hosted a group with theme of “non-trophy mature Piedmont.” Had hoped to be outside, but weather didn’t cooperate. So tables in living room (better ventilation than dining), with air purifiers and open windows. Everyone did home tests beforehand. Ruby was a handful, excited to have company, and to steal food (a large hunk of mousse truffee)
As we gathered, potato chips and NV Suenen C+C Champagne (2017 base), I thought this was quite fine- pear and apple, some dried lavender, pastry crustcrisp and snappy. John said not as deep as the 2018 base, but I don’t have that comparison, so I was quite satisfied. A-/B+
We had some cheeses (Ossau Iraty, Mt Alice, Camembert, Jersey Girl,.plus Mark brought a big hunk of Rogue River blue) as well as some charcuterie ( Red Table Gentle Giant, Mangalitsa finocchiona , sopressata)
1962 Schroder and Schyler Ch. Giscours
Bring out your dead. Maderized. D
Most of the Nebbiolo had been cradled or stood up for a long period before double decanting.
1958 Vallana Spanna
Smoke, dark fruits, tar. Full and tangy, long finish. B+/A-
1971 Antoniolo Gattinara
Red fruit, orange peel, forest floor. Bright and long, A-/.B+
1979 Filippo Sobrero Barolo
Red and black cherry, some rusty oxidative notes, ok. B/B-
1971 Filippo Sobrero Barolo
Red fruits, mushroom, forest floor, complex but not very fresh, B
The Sobreros had been moved earlier in the week, were a bit cloudy, which probably affected the showing. The 71 is especially supposed to be a profound wine.
And now for something completely different
2010 Glantenay Volnay-Santenots
This was pretty tight, but you can sense the excellent wine underneath (I’ve had a couple times before)..Showed much more on night two- floral, fine black cherry fruit, minerally finish. B on Sat, A- on Sun.
A break, for oysters with ramp mignonette and the 2002 Luneau-Papin L d’Or Muscadet.
Nice showing- citrus and saline, fresh but with plenty of complexity, long. All one can expect for aging a $12 wine. A-
As some rillettes and truffle mousse made the rounds (at least till Ruby grabbed the latter), Sasha sent around a blind white. Initially sure it was Riesling, contemplated sec tendre Chenin Blanc, but should have stuck with first thought. Once back to Riesling I thought Austrian, maybe from a very ripe vintage. Big, with honied fruit, peach and plum with some herbs and straw. Once revealed John said he had tried recently, and thought this bottle was showing some extra maturity compared to other. 2007 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling GG B+/B
Back to Nebbiolo
1978 Oddero Barolo
Black cherry, road tar, smoke, mushroom. Medium bodied, a little four square but I enjoy. B+/B
1978 Cantina Mascallero (Bartolo) Barolo
OK, John broke theme, Bartolo is trophy these days. And sometimes pedigree wins out. Red cherry, campfire, bacon, fennel seed. Bright, long, complete, complex. A/A-
Somewhere in here I served dinner- brasato, lumpy polenta, and spinach
1971 Fontanafredda Barolo
Advanced, a bit sour, not a good bottle.
1971 Fontanafredda “Vigna La Rosa” Barolo
Unsure about the designation(is this a vineyard?), but this was head, shoulders, and knees above the advanced regular bottling. Red and black cherries, roast meat, a touch of camphor. Good length, great texture. A-
1970 de Forville Barbaresco
Lovely showing, lighter style but with verve and elegance. Bright cherry, tar, rose petals. B+
1964 Oddero Barolo
I’ve had much better bottles of this. Fruit is tired, oxidative notes, balsamic and soy. C+
1964 Franco Fiorano Barolo
Another one that wasn’t a great bottle (at 50+ it will happen). But you can sense a serious wine underneath, just a cork that didn’t do its job fully.
And of course I couldn’t send them off without a blind wine. Immediate Chenin, but guesses were Huet and Foreau. Mark gets Chidaine. 2005 Chidaine”les Tuffeaux” Montlouis. General approval. Citrus, mango, candied ginger, with wool and wax in generous doses. Moderately sweet, vivid acids, fun. B+/A-
Fun afternoon/evening with a good group.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
