The Dorks put on Italian wines last weekend. The group was unusually large with spouses present so rather than cluster around a table as usual each guest had to walk their wine around and pours were small and blind. I know I didn't taste everything and I gave up on taking notes early on. It just wasn't possible. But these are what I remember:
2016 Azienda Agricola Vignalta Colli Euganei Fior d'Arancio Alpianae Moscato
DS's. Bright reddish orange, insane tang and acidity, only lightly sweet--kumquat, blood orange, mango, everything sweet-tangy is in here--this is absolutely killer. I have not bought new sweet wines for our cellar in ten years, but I ordered six of these. Cannot. Live. Without.
2005 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Nebbiolo
This wine seems to be holding something back. All the right elements were there, they were just less out there than one would expect.
1952 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Nebbiolo
WT's. A great bottle, full tertiary (of course), remarkable. There was another '52 as well, I took a picture of the bottle and the name looks like Fara or Tara or Taca but none came up on CT so I'm at a loss as to what it was--except that it was mighty fine.
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba Nebbiolo
Dark berry with tar, spices and underbrush. Full bodied and powerful. Tasted younger than 21 years, with grippy tannins that need another ten years to relax and evolve.
2016 Pieropan Soave Classico Calvarino Garganega
I love these wines. Citrus and apples, of course, with a touch of loquat (a tropical fruit widely planted where I grew up). Lots of depth here that will reward more bottle age.
2012 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fiore
Tim's I think. Musty, clearly older, and fairly polarizing for those not used to decaying white fruit. I liked it.
2013 Casa E. di Mirafiore Barolo Nebbiolo
Typical Barolo fruit backed up with some earthiness. Very good, and interesting to drink one so young and be reminded of those flavors where most barolos I drink are much older, but of course this needs to acquire more secondary nuances. HOLD.
2020 Ca' dei Zago Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Glera
Usually run from 'Prosecco' but not this time. Creamy citrus fruit and pear, very fine.
2019 Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato Terre Siciliane
Always love this wine and '19 is a great vintage. So young but not too young to enjoy--it's all here.
2001 Gaja Barbaresco Nebbiolo
A-M's bottle. Concerns caused by the moldy wet cork did not materialize in damage to the wine, thank god. Brick red color with everything you hope for: cherries, tar, spice, rose petals, and more tar. Endless finish. Exquisite.
2002 AR.PE.PE. Valtellina Superiore - Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse Nebbiolo
Plums and clay, some spice, bright and charming. Liked this a lot.
1999 Ronchi di Cialla Schioppettino di Cialla Friuli Colli Orientali
Swampy and necrotic to my tastes. Owner was defensive. I was told that later, with some effort, some fruit was detected but no way it was in the same park with TASHNYC's recent note on this wine.
2019 Suavia Soave Classico Monte Carbonare Garganega
Hannah's bottle. An unfiltered, unfined, complex garganega, impeccable flavors and balance. Right up there with the best Pieropans for exceptional quality. Goes on my shopping list. Neat package too--squat bottle with black with large, hand-painted looking (but not) white lettering.
2012 Passopisciaro Passorosso Terre Siciliane Nerello Mascalese
Took it to an Italian wine event. Drank fine and will eventually be great, but it's too soon for secondary complexity so it's just very good minerally red wine at the moment. HOLD.
1996 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc Nebbiolo
My bottle. Plummy fruit, roses, tar, tea--all the usual stuff, and elegantly so. In a prime drinking zone but should have 20 years of life left in it. It was discussed at the event I took this to that this producer has a reputation among some for being 'modern', but in fact no one here thought it modern (slick, international, oaky) at all--just very, very elegant.
And three opened at home:
2004 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT Red Bordeaux Blend
Swampy, dead.
2009 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Toscana IGT Sangiovese Blend, Sangiovese
Scant fruit and loads of acidity. The most drinkable of the three bottles we've opened since 2018 but still very underwelming, especially when compared to the positive experiences others report.
2017 Cusumano Etna Alta Mora Etna DOC Nerello Mascalese
Could not drink; notable volatile acidity required repurposing this to the homemade vinegar project.