Domaine Viret 1999 Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages St.-Maurice Cosmic, $12
Previous bottles of this wine were dominated by a mix of blue and black fruits, but this one emphasizes red fruits. Whether that’s a function of age, bottle variation or my own tasting idiosyncracies, I don’t know, but I really like it because it adds some brightness and vibrancy without sacrificing the other elements that make this wine unique, especially smoke, herbs and earth. There is also a touch of liqueur, but this does not make it unpleasant for me. Overall, this is complex, balanced, refreshing and delightful. It even goes very nicely with a medium-spiced vegetarian chili. Importer: Louis/Dressner.
Whitman Cellars 2001 Walla Walla Valley Narcissa Red, $20
This Bordeaux blend is quite pleasant, with aromas and flavors of cassis, earth, tobacco, smoke, herbs and chocolate. There is some oak evident, more than I might prefer, but it’s not intrusive enough to ruin the wine. It has good structure from grainy tannins and decent acidity, and makes an excellent match with a chick pea/feta casserole.
Jean-Paul Brun 2004 Beaujolais Terres Dorées l'Ancien Vieilles Vignes, $14
This reminds me of cran-raspberry drink, except it’s way, way better than that sounds, with nice dark earth mixed in, minerals, lively acidity, smooth texture and a long finish. Harmonious, refreshing, very enjoyable and an excellent match with a potato/broccoli/onion/emmenthaler omelette. Importer: Louis/Dressner.
Chateau Fourcas-Hosten 1995 Listrac, $18
This has a nice nose with some cedar, earth, graphite, cassis and smoke. On the palate, there is some cassis and plum fruit, a bit syrupy actually, accented by some gravel and earth. Grainy tannins give it some structure so the syrupiness does not become cloying. A bit rustic actually, especially without food, but with chick pea and feta casserole, it is excellent. Two days later, it’s more balanced and harmonious, less syrupy and more acidic, with an added herbal element, too. Very enjoyable.
Domaine Gibault 2002 Touraine Malbec, $11
Grape and black cherry mix with earth, smoke and tar aromas and flavors, and notable tannins. Actually, the predominant notes are dark, grapy fruit and tannins with not much else going on. The tannins provide structure and don’t get in the way and the acidity is bright, so on the whole it’s enjoyable with food. It has a plastic cork which makes me wonder a bit about the wisdom of having cellared it for a few years. Still, it’s a good value and goes very nicely with eggplant/onion/pepper pizza. The next night, it’s similar but a little more complex, with some herbal and mineral elements improving it. Definitely a food wine, it comes alive with tortellini. Importer: J. Cambier.