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WTN: Rioja 1995-1964 (plus Calsac and Valentini)

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Rioja 1995-1964 (plus Calsac and Valentini)

by Dale Williams » Thu Mar 17, 2022 11:35 am

A nice crew gathered at Balvanera on LES Monday night. Accommodating staff, excellent food for carnivores. We had empanadas (beef as well as ham and cheese) , cod croquettes, octopus, morcilla, skirt steak, dry aged ribeye, and fries.

NV Calsac “Les Revenants” Brut Nature
Jay continues my Calsac education. This is apparently all legacy varieties, none of the big 3. Green apple, hazelnut, pear blossom. Refined mousse, very good finish, A-/B+

2016 Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo
Off-theme but thought we needed some white with octopus. A bit closed, citrus and mineral, I took rest home and it really opened up next day. Crisp apple, lemon, saline mineral finish. B+

1995 CVNE Vina Real Rioja

Herbal/spicy (celery seed meets oregano), red fruited, smoky, good length. B/B+,

1991 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Rioja Gran Reserva
Herbal, long,. Young. Red cherries and raspberries, smoke, needs time. B+ with A potential.

1981 Lopez de Heredia Bosconia Rioja Gran Reserva
A bit funky, but solid core underneath, good length. B+

1981 CVNE Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva
Blackcurrant and black raspberry, coffeebean, coconut. Elegant and long, A-


1973 CVNE Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva
Red cherry and raspberry, dilly herbs, leather. Delicious. A-/B+

1970 Marques de Riscal Rioja
No other designation visible. A bit lifted on nose, bright cherry and dried flowers, light and ethereal, surprising long finish. B+

1970 Bilbainas Vina Pomal Rioja Reserva.
A little barnyard, sweet black cherry fruit, mature, B/B+

1970 Francos-Espanol Bordon Rioja Cosecha Especial
Delicate, red fruit, sandalwood, most mature of night but still good. B

1966 CVNE Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva.
Funky, red and black cherry, Earl grey tea, nice finish. B+/A-

1964 CVNE Vina Real Rioja Reserva Especial
Black cherry, impossibly fresh, fennel seed, coconut, leather. A-/A

1964 Riojanas Monte Real Rioja Gran Reserva
Another stunner. Red cherry, cigarbox, 5 spice, long. A-

Really fun night, good group, good restaurant. Ability to age of these old school Rioja is immense, and once again ‘64 is the star.


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Paul Winalski

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Re: WTN: Rioja 1995-1964 (plus Calsac and Valentini)

by Paul Winalski » Thu Mar 17, 2022 12:30 pm

Glad to see that the 1973 CVNE Imperial is still going strong. I had it in the mid-1980s and would have made much the same tasting notes that you did.

-Paul W.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Rioja 1995-1964 (plus Calsac and Valentini)

by David M. Bueker » Fri Mar 18, 2022 9:58 am

I can't remember the last time I saw a bottle of LdH Gran Reserva red on a shelf for sale.
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