2019 Wasenhaus Am Kreuz
Crisp clear trembling transparent fruit. So delicate. But not flimsy. It is well-anchored with juicy sappiness and fruit you can feel. Delicious and very drinkable. The bottle emptied in a flash with pizza dinner. (Some grauburgunder vines mixed in, for those keeping track)
2019 Wasenhaus Bellen
Darker and earthier than the Am Kreuz, but still in the bright clean fresh register of things. Maybe this needs age, but it doesn’t show the depth or the complexity to make it worth spending the extra money, at least for me and for drinking now.
2018 Hain
Dark, earthy, spicy, as so many Spätburgunder are. But also brisk and herbal, as so many Mosel wines are. Structure and tannin build with air, suggesting you could age it, and the soaring fragrance is probably the best part. There’s no doubt this is a well-made wine, especially for casual restaurant drinking (less than 15euros retail). But a bit too boring for me to drink at home.
2018 Axel Bauer Handwerk
Leans a bit further into the earthy brothy side of Spätburgunder than I might prefer, although it doesn’t get full-on weedy. But it still has a nice core of berry fruit, fresh and lively, with enough substance and texture to roll around your tongue and play well with food. Another in the genre of sub-15 euro retail wines that are great for casual restaurants, but less so for me at home.
2015 Solveigs “Present”
Sweet fruit with sour fresh cut raw wood notes. If you look closely enough, there are some nice aspects to the fruit. But the structure is going wild and this is not the time to drink it. (Whether another time would be better is beyond me)
2019 Holger Koch *
So good. Silky and layered with good substance, but such a light touch. So good.
2018 Holger Koch ***
Crisp, firm and elegant, much more compact and reserved than the 2019 *. Nice times with a nice wine, but I would imagine this is more promising in the future, although others will know better.
2017 Holger Koch Reserve
Deliciously succulent harmonious resolved wine. For my tastes, this is a lovely state of evolution for drinking now. I’m sure there are more tertiary notes ahead, but not sure if any complexity/textural excitement will accompany. Others will know better.
2014 JB Becker Kabinett trocken
Resolved, soft, gentle. Not the same depth as the 2017 Koch Reserve, but very good value if that’s what you’re seeking.
1994 JB Becker Wallufer Walkenberg Spätlese trocken
Still holding some sweetness in the middle, and there is still tension and grip. But also plenty of the rusty autumnal aged notes. Probably a bit further into the tertiaries than my ideal, and nothing amazing or complex, but a nice bottle with dinner, so no complaints.