My Bordeaux group has an annual Nebbiolo and white truffle dinner. This year the truffle crop was expensive and a bit inexpressive, so we scaled back the truffle buy to cover one course. We gathered at Ben’s loft, where we enjoyed an assortment of potato chips ( Mountain Sweet Berry Farm) and the
2011 Pierre Peters Chetillons Blanc de Blancs Champagne while we waited. What an overachiever for the vintage, bright and crisp, bready without the fruit being overpowered. A-/B+
Then, to the table.
Soft scrambled eggs with white truffles
1971 Braida (Giacomo Bologna) Barbera d'Asti Riserva
A big surprise, plenty of life left, black cherry and sour cherry, tangy. B+
1970 Cavallotto Barolo Bricco Boschis
A bit lifted, a bit tired, but some interesting red fruit meets soy meets tar at core. B/B-
1970 Camerano Barolo
One of the weirder noses of all time, tawny port spiked with bug spray. C-
Tajarin (31 yolks to a kilo) w/ truffle butter
1971 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
My bottle, dropped at Bens several weeks ago, he reported pale and unexpressive. By serving time it showed a bit volatile, but sweet fruit on palate with some underbrush, Better days behind it, B-/C+
1971 Produttori Riserva Montestefano
Young, quiet, this seemed like it needed more time, but nice. B+
1971 Giacosa Barbaresco
Pretty, sweet cherry fruit, rose petals, smoke. Integrated and whole.A-
1971 Oddero Barbaresco
Opened late to counter the Ovello, but tiredest of bunch, Strawberry fruit barely hanging on, C+
Braised short ribs with polenta and asparagus
1971 G. Borgogno Barolo Riserva Antichi Vigneti Propri
Pale, some light brettty notes, slightly pruney fruit. B-
1971 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cascina Masante
Red and black cherry, smoked meat, fennel seed, quite delicious, A-/B+
1971 Marcarini Barolo Riserva di Famiglia Brunate
Full and complex, black cherry, campfire, tar. Nicely balanced. A-
1971 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo
Sweet fruit but pruney nose, got better in glass. B
1974 Cantina Terre del Barolo Barolo
Thin, a bit tired, not my fave. C+/B-
1974 Massolino Barolo
Still a bit of tannin, nice fruit, fun. B+
1975 Cappellano Barolo (Troglia bottling)
In the Mrs. Butterworth bottle. Mint/eucalyptus is dominant, quiet red plum fruit, a touch roasted. B
1999 Giacosa Barolo Falletto
Young but drinking well, rich full fruit, structured without being hard, floral, fennel seed and coffee notes, A-
2001 Giacosa Barolo
Also young but drinking well, darker fruit, road tar, spice. Happy to see I have couple of these. A-/B+
Using some of the excess egg whites, Wendy had made 2 gorgeous Pavlovas (chocolate and coffee, topped with hazelnut cookie crumbles).
NV Cantina (Bartolo) Mascarello Chinato
I’m just not a Chinato guy, this to me is herbs in mothballs.
1995 Crociani Vin Santo
Pretty advanced, fig and creme brulee under the oxidation.
Really fun night with great crew, we expected some duds, but some wonderful wine mixed in.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
