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WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

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Paul Winalski

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WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

by Paul Winalski » Mon Aug 30, 2021 11:26 am

DanS and I got together with a couple of veteran local wine merchants and an old friend to share some cellar treasures:

1985 Hermitage Rouge, J. L. Chave
Mature brick-red color. Abundant, complex aromas of classic Hermitage--red fruits, smoke. In the mouth, a superb mixture of power and grace. Tannin and acidity fully resolved, no rough edges, just pleasure. A glorious finish. A great wine from a great producer in a great year. If you're lucky enough to have some, now's the time to drink it. Triple Curly with an extra Woo! Woo! Woo!

1989 Hermitage Rouge, J. L. Chave
The notes for the 1985 apply to this wine, too, except that the 1989 tastes distinctly younger. As I recall, 1989 produced bigger and more forceful wines in the Northern Rhone than 1985 did, and I think that shows here. I'd give it a few more years. Triple Curly with an extra Woo! Woo!

1995 Musigny Vielles Vignes, de Vogue
Looking at it, you'd never mistake this for a young wine, but you'd never guess it is 25 years old, either. Very complex pinot noir aromas of berry fruit greet you from the glass. It has the elegance and power one expects from a grand cru Burgundy, but it's a bit on the grumpy side and there's a bit of abrasive acidity there. It's enjoyable now but still opening up and could use another ten years. Double Curly Moe.

2005 Cote-Rotie, Rene Rostaing
I think this was the Cuvee Classique bottling. Dark brick color. Abundant and complex floral aromas combine with dark fruit and roasted meat in a classic Cote-Rotie bouquet. Mouth-filling flavors follow the aromas in character. It's too complex, integrated, and enjoyable to try to pick apart. The wine has backbone tannin and acidity, but in a good way--it complements and carries the magnificent fruit. Long, beautiful finish. Enjoyable now and will only get better with more time. Triple Curly.

-Paul W.
Last edited by Paul Winalski on Wed Oct 20, 2021 1:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

by Bill Spohn » Tue Aug 31, 2021 11:36 am

You were drinking some fabulous wines, Paul.

I've been lucky enough to taste Chave and Jaboulet Hermitage against each other twice, in the superb 1978 vintage. Split decision based on those tastings and oddly, I have been unable to arrange third taste off for the prize!
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Paul Winalski

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Re: WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

by Paul Winalski » Tue Aug 31, 2021 1:18 pm

I have heard, but I can't confirm, that Jaboulet's La Chapelle has gone downhill since Gerard Jaboulet's passing. The examples I've had (1980s and 90s) were right up there with Chave. I don't think I've ever had the chance to do a side-by-side tasting from the same vintage, though.

-Paul W.
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

by Bill Spohn » Tue Aug 31, 2021 1:40 pm

Paul Winalski wrote:I have heard, but I can't confirm, that Jaboulet's La Chapelle has gone downhill since Gerard Jaboulet's passing. The examples I've had (1980s and 90s) were right up there with Chave. I don't think I've ever had the chance to do a side-by-side tasting from the same vintage, though.

-Paul W.


I can do side by sides for 95, 96 and 97 once they mature to the point I enjoy them.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

by David M. Bueker » Tue Aug 31, 2021 1:42 pm

Paul Winalski wrote:I have heard, but I can't confirm, that Jaboulet's La Chapelle has gone downhill since Gerard Jaboulet's passing. The examples I've had (1980s and 90s) were right up there with Chave. I don't think I've ever had the chance to do a side-by-side tasting from the same vintage, though.

-Paul W.


Heck, talk to the high disposable income newbies who wouldn't know a mature Hermitage from a hole in the ground, and they'll tell you that Chave is nowhere near as good anymore.

Hmm...I sound like a curmudgeon.
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Ted Richards

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Re: WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

by Ted Richards » Tue Aug 31, 2021 2:11 pm

Thanks for the Chave notes, Paul. I guess I'll have to save my one remaining '89 for a while. Sadly, I'll have to make do with the 1990, 1991, 1993, 1994, 1995 (since I have a case) and 1997.

I opened my last '83 and '85 Chaves chez Jenise a few years ago. They were both fabulous. As I recall two of us preferred the '83 and two preferred the '85.
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Re: WTN: Three Rhones and a Burg

by Bill Spohn » Tue Aug 31, 2021 2:16 pm


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