WTN: 2015 Enderle & Moll

Being back in Berlin means getting back to favorite wine shops and checking in on favorite producers they keep in stock. That includes Enderle & Moll, especially because of the general practice of having older vintages available. In the past, I’ve really enjoyed these wines with 3-5 years of age, due to the textural integration that comes with a bit of bottle time. However, these 2015s are probably reaching the limit of what I would want for my palate.

2015 E&M Spätburgunder Muschelkalk
The 2015 fruit is very ripe and juicy but also clear, silky and delicate. I love that combination. Plus, the texture is so vibrant, the wine pulses through the mouth. Lots to love and lots to enjoy. The only nit to pick is that the ripe fruit seems to be getting thinner and more feathery than bottles from the past. Not a problem for drinking now, but this might be rounding the optimum curve for my palate.

2015 E&M Spätburgunder Buntsandstein “Ida”
Here we have the deep dark woodsy side of Spätburgunder, although still with plenty of E&M juice. That dark juicy berry fruit is great for enjoying with your meal now, but the fruit is edging towards the murky undistinguished phase of aging, without any compelling aged texture or complexity. Again, for my palate, probably passing the optimum point.

Enderle & Moll is a new name for me. I believe that their estate is located in Baden. They sound lovely renditions of Pinot Noir. What are the prices retail in Berlin?

The only time I visited Berlin was the year when the wall was breached. The western part was full of east Germans wandering around gaping at the prosperity and a trip into the eastern zone was quite easy though the sinister looking border guards were still there together with petty rules, e.g. we entered at Friedrichstrasse (IIRC) and weren't allowed to exit at Checkpoint Charlie. It was a fascinating time. I guess Berlin has changed enormously but remains fascinating.

Enderle & Moll is a new name for me. I believe that their estate is located in Baden. They sound lovely renditions of Pinot Noir. What are the prices retail in Berlin?

Yes, they started in 2007 so they are relatively new. Although they became famous pretty quickly. The quality is very high and they became trendy as somewhat-adjacent to the natural wine movement. But, the style is not at all excessive or experimental. Just pure clean juicy fresh pinot noir with a bit of distinction (if not as much as a fine Burgundy or even the more expensive German renditions). These are the site specific cuvees and they retail for low 40euros, which is more than fair for my tastes. They also have a cheaper wine that can be easier to drink right away but without as much depth. The issue is the fragility, so I don't buy them in the US.

I guess Berlin has changed enormously but remains fascinating.

I guess change is a constant in all big cities, but that seems to be especially the case in Berlin!