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WTN: Benevolent Neglect Wines.....(long/boring)

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TomHill

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WTN: Benevolent Neglect Wines.....(long/boring)

by TomHill » Wed Aug 11, 2021 4:15 pm

We tasted last night (8/2/21) some Benevolent Neglect Wines:
1. BenevolentNeglect Vermentino WindmillVnyd/DunniganHills (12%; www.BNWines.com) BNWines/SantaRosa 2020: Light yellow color; very pretty Verm/floral/fragrant/carnations quite aromatic slight chalky/mineral quite lovely nose; fairly tart fairly rich classic Verm/floral/carnations light chalky/perfumed talc flavor; very long rather tart fairly rich very strong floral/Verm/carnations bit perfumed talc/mineral rather saline/savory finish; quite a pretty Verm & not as rich/lush as most Calif Vermintinos; bright/sinewy/savory & more in a Ligurian style. $24.00
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2. BenevolentNeglect RibollaGialla BengierFamilyVnyd/NapaVlly (12.5%) 2018: Med.light yellow color; fairly fragrant RG/white pepper lightly floral/gardenias some appley/pear very slight phenolic/ViniMacerati/resiny w/ very little skin-contact character; rather tart/lean/austere fairly appley/floral/RG/white pepper flavor w/ very light VM character; very long strong floral/RG/carnations/appley slightly tannic/austere/acidic finish w/ very slight VM/resiny character; the next day, at a slightly warmer temperature, the VM/resiny/skin-contact character had come to the forefront but still in good balance w/ the RG fruit; a rather saline/savory quite good expression of skin-contact RG. $36.00
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3. BenevolentNeglect Chard MasaOrganicEstate/CarmelVlly (12.5%) 2019: Med.light yellow color; fairly strong appley/melony/Chard/cold-climate bit chalky/flinty very slight pencilly/oak quite attractive fragrant nose; quite tart/tangy clean/brisk classic c-c Chard/appley/melony bit lean bit Chablis-style/flinty bit chalky slight pencilly/oak flavor; very long brisk/bright/Chard/melony/appley/pear bit flinty/Chablis-like austere bright finish; a quite appley/flinty style of Chard that reminds a lot of the Massican or Mathiasson Chards; rather taut/brisk/sinewy Chard but still plenty of flavor & not lean or eviscerated; quite a pretty Chard. $36.00
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4. BenevolentNeglect fiasco AlderSpringsVnyd/LunaticFringeBlock/MendoCnty (12.5%) 2019: Quite fizzy PetNat light yellow color; bit soda-poppy/7Up slight yeasty/herbal lightly floral nose w/ no obvious varietal character; quite fizzy/frizante/explodes in the mouth brisk/tart some appley/earthy/herbal bit soda poppy/bland flavor; med.short quite fizzy/frizzante slight appley/herbal/earthy almost bland flavor w/ not identifiable fruit or varietal character; the wine sorta explodes/faoms up when it hits the palate and carries away any fruit or flavor; it's all about the fizzy foam. $32.00
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5. BenevolentNeglect Counoise Rosato WindmillVnyd/DunniganHills (12.8%) 2020: Light red fairly dark for rose color; very fragrant perfumed strawberry/Counoise/alping strawberry bit earthy/dusty very fragrant nose; fairly tart bright/Counoise/strawberry slight earthy/dusty flavor w/ light bit rustic tannins; very long very floral/strawberries/Counoise light earthy/dusty lightly tart finish w/ light rough tannins; quite lovely perfumed/Counoise/strawberry aromatics more like a light red than a rose. $22.00
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6. BenevolentNeglect Counoise Calif (12.2%) 2019: Med.light color only slightly darker than the rosato; much more earthy/dusty light strawberry/Counoise rather Languedoc-like/rustic nose; lightly tart rather earthy/dusty/rustic/Languedoc-like some strawberry/Counoise finish w/ light rough/coarse tannins; much like the Rosato but much more earthy/dusty & not the aromatics and a bit rustic/coarse in character; interesting aromatics but rather on the rustic/coarse side. $24.00
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7. BenevolentNeglect Mourvedre ForeFamilyVnyds/LakeCnty (13.7%) 2018: Very dark color; strong earthy/dusty some Mourv/plummy/boysenberry light pencilly/oak bit coarse/loamy nose; soft bit fat rather earthy/dusty slight Mourv/plummy/boysenberry light pencilly/oak bit ContraCosta/loamy/mushroomy flavor w/ light rough tannins; very long fairly earhy/dusty/loamy/mushroomy some plummy/Mourv/boysenberry/blackberry finsh w/ light rough tannins; reminds a lot of ContraCoasty Mourv but more earthy/loamy in character; a rather earthy/rustic expression of Mourv. $45.00
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8. BenevolentNeglect EnzVnyd/LimeKilnVlly (14.5%) 2018: Fairly dark color; beautiful ripe/plummy/blackberry/boysenberry/Zin/very spicy quite dusty/OV bit pencilly/oak very perfumed lovely nose; lightly tart very spicy/blackberry/Zin/ripe/boysenberry/slight jammy rather dusty/OV/bit earthy light pencilly/oak very perfumed classic LimeKilnVlly Zin flavor w/ light dusty tannins; very long/lingering rather dusty/OV very strong ripe/jammy/blackberry/spicy/Zin/boysenberry light pencilly/oak lightly tart finish w/ light ripe tannins; a beautiful classic LimeKiln/SanBenitoCnty Zin the likes I've not seen since the late '70's; a classic old-timey CienegaVlly Zin. $55.00
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9. BenevolentNeglect Syrah LasMadresVnyd/Carneros/SonomaCnty (14.1%) 2018: Very dark color; intense blackberry/Syrah classic LasMadres/black olive tapenade much more fragrant Syrah some complex nose; bit soft very strong blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah slight c-c/black pepper classic Carneros Syrah/black olive tapenade quite structured some complex flavor w/ some chewey tannins; very long/lingering blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah classic LasMadres/black olive tapenade structured light c-c/black pepper complex finish w/ medest tannins; more perfume & Syrah blackberry than the w-c version; a beautiful classic LasMadres Syrah that needs 3-6 yrs of age yet. $45.00
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10. BenevolentNeglect Syrah WholeCluster LasMadresVnyd/Carneros (13.1%) 2018: Very dark color; very much LasMadres/black olive tapenade blackberry/blueberry/Syrah much more roasted/Rhonish less intense but more interesting/complex nose; bit tarter strong black olive tapenade/bit c-c/black pepper somewhat Rhonish/roasted/pungent strong blackberry/boysenberry/Syrah some complex flavor w/ modest chewey tannins; much like the regular LasMadras but not as intense fruit & much more roasted/Rhonish character & somewhat harder/more structured; beautiful expression of LasMadres Syrah. $50.00
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11. BenevolentNeglect Syrah BerryBrookVnyd/FountaingroveDist/SonomaCnty (13.8%) 2017: Very dark color; very bright floral/blackberry/Syrah very spicy light smokey/oak lovely perfumed/aromatic nose; very strong very spicy/bright/floral/violets blackberry/Syrah/blueberry rather tart light smokey/oak some complex flavor w/ modest grippy tannins; very long/lingering fairly tart bright/floral/violets/Syrah/blackberry slight earthy light smokey/oak some complex finish w/ light grippy tannins; quite a pretty/bright/floral expression of Calif Syrah; reminds a bit of the Boheme Syrahs, some of Val d'Aosta Syrahs w/o the earthiness but the saame bright Alpine floral character. $55.00
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A wee BloodyPulpit:
1. BenevolentNeglect: This is a tiny operation over in SantaRosa run by winemakers Matt Nagy and Ben Brenner. I heard about them from someplace, took a look at their WebSite, saw they made a large range of interesting wines, and ordered 1.5 cs to try. From reading their WebSite, they describe their winemaking as "minimal intervention". Though they don't wear it on their sleeve, they would probably fit into the "natural" winemaking camp. Whether they have been discovered by AliceFiering and been vetted by SweetAlice as "natural" winemakers, I have no idea.
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2. Ribolla: It comes from the original GeorgeVare Ribolla planting just north of Napa town.
This was a bit of a chameleon of a wine. I first tried it when it arrived about 2 weeks ago. It was distinctly light golden in color & strongly suggested a skin-contact white. The wine, in fact, did have 15 days of skin-contact. Though the RG varietal character was there, the ViniMacerati was also present but not dominant...in good balance w/ the RG fruit.
This wine did not appear to be as dark in golden color. It had a high acidity, almost screechy/apple peel in character and displayed mostly the RG varietal character, albeit rather low-key/quiet. The VM character was barely evident & it was pretty austere on the palate.
When tried the next day, at a warmer temperature; the VM character was much more evident and it seemed much more similar to the btl I'd had 2 weeks afore. Still good balance between the RG varietal character and the VM character.
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3. PetNat: This style of wine seems to be growing in popularity. I am generally not a fan of these wines. It's all about the foam & the fizz and not much else. But, then, I'm not a big fan of sparkling wines/Champagne, either.
The next day, at a much warmer temperature and when most of the CO2 had dissipated, it was a much more interesting near-still wine w/ a rather earthy/rustic/Southern Italy white wine character.
Not sure what varieties are in the Lunatic Fringe but StewBewley has a bunch of weird mostly Italian varieties planted so no telling what's in it. But it seems to be a waste to make a PetNat from really interesting grapes that could, potentially, make a very interesting white wine.
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4. So my intention of putting together this tasting was to get a feeling for the BN wines. They draw from a number of pretty high-end vnyds and they all delivered on the quality those vnyds can produce. I was particularly impressed by the three Syrahs. I know that LasMadres Syrahs can make great wines, but I'd never had a Syrah from the FountainGrove Dist before. It was right up there w/ the LasMadres.
I was also impressed by the Enz Zin as well. I need to try it w/ a Bedrock version. It reminded me a lot of the Zins I had in the late '70's, sorta old-timey, from LimeKilnVnyds and the EnzVnyds versions, back when Almaden/CharlesLeFranc were in their hey-day in that area.
Over the last few yrs, as more & more "natural" wines appear on the marketplace, I've become a bit skittish of any unknown "natural" wine. Some of them can be absolutely dreadful. That's one thing they very much impressed me of these BN wines. They were absolutely clean & well-made and showed absolutely no signs of any "natty" character.
But a word of warning, because Ben & Matt are careful about shipping their wines, during the Summer, they insist on shipping overnight so they don't get any damage during transit. This, of course, costs an arm & a leg. I believe that during the colder shipping season, they don't insist on overnight shipping, which the cost is much more reasonable.
Anyhoo....Benevolent Neglect are wines worth checking out.
Tom
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Benevolent Neglect Wines.....(long/boring)

by Jenise » Thu Aug 12, 2021 7:15 pm

Interesting notes. New winery to me; love the name. Re the comparison of whole cluster vs. regular Last Madras syrahs, the one time I had the opp to taste two syrahs up here with the same difference, the whole cluster was markedly more intense, had more spice too. Interesting that these went the other direction for you.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Benevolent Neglect Wines.....(long/boring)

by Ryan M » Sat Aug 14, 2021 10:45 am

Eclectic, and very you Tom! Check out the note for an Australian Vermentino I just posted in my "Summer Days" notes.
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
Galileo Galilei

(avatar: me next to the WIYN 3.5 meter telescope at Kitt Peak National Observatory)

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