In late June we were supposed to have a Rougeard/Baudry dinner, but forecast was 97 and no one felt with 15-20 red wines. This Wednesday was more temperate, so I jumped on train with John and we headed to Noreetuh. 10 Loire fans gathers, Jin put together a fun menu:
shrimp chips
salmon rangoon
big-eye tuna poke
Musubi platter- lobster with coral aioli, Japanese scallop, sweet corn, fluke with ume
octopus/bacon skewers
Iberico pork belly skewers
pork bowl with cabbage, egg, and rice
imperial steak
mochiko fried chicken
Red wines were I think mostly double-decanted.
2005 Baudry “La Croix Boissee” Chinon Blanc
Fresh and young, like a nutty white Burg with some Chenin waxiness thrown in for fun. Nice length. B+
2014 Baudry “La Croix Boissee” Chinon Blanc
Some called premox, others (me) thought awkward stage. Nose is nutty and lifted and oxidative, but palate doesn’t have oxidative notes, just seems shut down. NR
The reds
2010 Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeaux” Saumur-Champigny
Young and tight and totally spicy oak-dominated at moment, but you can tell there is a potentially great wine underneath. B- for drinking now, probably an A-
2010 Baudry “La Croix Boissee” Chinon
Also pretty oaky at moment, also tight, also loads of potential.Again B- for drinking now, probably an A-
I didn’t enjoy either for now, but would happily own. Next flight more giving
2009 Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeaux” Saumur-Champigny
Oak more integrated, marvelous length. A-/B+
2009 Baudry “La Croix Boissee” Chinon
Again oak more integrated, still some chewy tannin, powerful, rich and long. . B+/A-
2008 Clos Rougeard “Les Clos” Saumur-Champigny
Tangy acids, rich fruit, no noticeable oak, long. A-
2007 Clos Rougeard “Les Clos” Saumur-Champigny
Smoky, black cherry and sandalwood, nicely integrated. B+/A-
2007 Baudry “La Croix Boissee” Chinon
Corked!
2006 Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeaux” Saumur-Champigny
Herby, delicious, in a nice place. A-
2005 Baudry “Les Grezeaux” Chinon
And in the overachiever of the night spotlight, the Grezeaux. Red fruit, herby, peppery, bright acid and long complex finish.with just a slight hint of animal fur. Stunner for the cost. A-
2005 Baudry“La Croix Boissee” Chinon
Spicy oak notes, rich, good length. B+
2005 Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeaux” Saumur-Champigny
Structured, tannic, but rich perfumed fruit. A-/B+
2004 Clos Rougeard “Les Poyeaux” Saumur-Champigny
Exotic, complex, complete, young but drinking beautifully. A-/A
2004 Joguet “Cuvee des Varennes ” Chinon Franc de Pied
As we didn’t have a 2004 Baudry, this was offered by John. Fun wine, structured, crunchy red fruit, tobacco, pine. Styled differently but quite fun. B+/B
2000 Baudry La Croix Boisse Chinon
A bit like the ‘05, just in a lower key. Red fruit, herb, reminds me of a Cab Franc heavy Bdx.,. B+
1997 Clos Rougeard “Les Clos” Saumur-Champigny
Most ready of the Rougeards. Nice silky texture, bright fruits, resolved tannins. A-
1997 Baudry “La Croix Boissee” Chinon
Earthy, leathery, cranberry and black cherry., ready A-/B+
1996 Clos Rougeard “le Bourg”- Saumur-Champigny
Meaty, still structured, still needs time at 25 (though Don says more approachable than last time he had)
B+
1995 Clos Rougeard “le Bourg”- Saumur-Champigny
I actually didn’t write anything down (these were all phone notes) , but know my impression was very similar to the 1996.
With exception of the corked wine, everything was delicious. I don’t remember a big wine dinner with this much consistency in ages. Rougeard deserves all of its plaudits, but the Baudrys were able to easily hold their own, at a fraction of the price. I obviously need to expand my purchases (especially Grezeaux)
Great wines, great food, great company.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C
drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.