WTN: Merkelbachman Turner Overdrive

by **David M. Bueker** » Tue Jul 06, 2021 7:27 pm

2019 Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett #5 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (7/6/2021)
Merkelbach always rides the tide of the vintage. I like that, as I enjoy the variations of expression that come from their block picking, and fuder-by-fuder bottling. The wines are time capsules that tell the tale of the year, and also of an older style of growing grapes and making wine.

If I were required to demonstrate “what is Kabinett” this wine would do a good job of setting the frame of reference. Fruity, spicy (hello Wurzgarten), and finishing with mint muddled in mineral water, it’s all the things I look for in Kabinett. There’s refreshment to spare, and the sweetness doesn’t linger. There does seem to be a teensy hint of petrol, but that’s old school. The Selbachs helped out in 2019, but the wine is still classic Merkelbach.