I bought both the Kabinett and the Spaetlese editions of this wine on first release. I reviewed the Spaetlese elsewhere. I opened one of the Kabinetts last night.
The wine has a lovely pale gold color and some spritz bubbles appear on the glass. At first the aromas were shy and the wine very tart, but it opens up after a minute or so. This is almost like a version of the Spaetlese with the volume knob turned down a bit. Peony dominates the aromas, but there's citrus and tropical fruit there and a bit of mature riesling tar. Flavors follow the aromas. Everything is very nicely balanced, but there is a bit of a sag in the flavors mid-palate. The wine unfolds into a lovely peacock-tail finish. An impressive showing at 20+ years for a Kabinett, but I think it might be starting to fade. Then again, it wouldn't surprise me if I were to make the same judgment 10 years from now. It's definitely a joy to drink right now--no need to wait any further. Triple Larry.
-Paul W.