On Pierre Péters NV and the happy effect of vintage

[David M. Bueker]

Had a bottle of the Pierre Péters Cuvée de Réserve last night. It was a December 2017 disgorgement, and opened like a cannon had gone off. We had a few different glasses involved, and the wine showed completely differently in each. One glass must have had some scratching of the bowl, as the wine blew through its bubbles in a manner of five minutes. When I got to the last three or four sips it was completely flat. It was interesting, because I was able to evaluate the wine without it being Champagne. I expected tart Chablis, but what I got was a solid Bourgogne Blanc in weight and richness (without the oak). Tasting it from a different glass, effervescence intact, the wine was still broader that I expected, but still had its typical clarity.

The prior bottle I had at my folks house was a May 2019 disgorgement, and had more of a laser beam of acidity. There was still a richness of flavor, but not the same breadth.

The two wines, while both clearly Chardonnay based Champagne, were different enough that I would use them differently if I decided to actively plan around specific disgorgements. I loved drinking both, just as I have recently enjoyed the much older 2011 disgorgement bottles I have opened from my cellar. The wines have been different, and I suspect that would frustrate some folks. I enjoy the variation of the artisanal product.

[Jenise]

When you buy do you search for different disgorgements? My champagne world is much more basic than yours and I'll admit I've never paid attention to that when buying, only perhaps noting it later when documenting the wine or adding to a stash I already have.
Interesting too, the difference in the glassware. We've started pitching any glass that seems to retain droplets inside but out of concern for off flavors like soap and the inability to dry it without spots. It has not occurred to me that it would damage the effervescence in champagne.

Speaking of which I have a lot of TNs to write, including about bubbles. My Dorks tasting group got together last Saturday night--a lot of champagne was consumed in celebration.

[David M. Bueker]

I don’t generally seek out specific disgorgements, unless I have a bottle that truly impresses beyond normal. The May 2019 disgorgement of the Péters NV did that. Managed to find three more bottles.

[Robin Garr]

David, isn't the practice of disclosing the disgorgement date relatively recent, like last decades of the 20th century? I wonder even now how many routine purchasers pay attention to it or even notice it on the back of the bottle.

Also, I just realized that "last decades of the 20th century" means 20ish to 40 years ago now. I need some Champagne.

[David M. Bueker]

Yes. The disclosure of disgorgement dates is largely related to the rise of the grower Champagne movement. The big houses never told anyone anything. They didn’t need to until growers started taking a nibble out of their sales.

You can actually thank Terry Theise for advancing the grower movement. He wasn’t the first to import a grower Champagne, but he was the first to import a portfolio of grower Champagnes.

The big houses never told anyone anything.

Jacquesson is probably big for a grower, but I think still qualifies. And they label cuvees with numbers largely based on specific vintages. It's a curious practice that is probably not the most user-friendly for non-geeks. But they are not exactly alone in those types of labeling practices!

[David M. Bueker]

The big houses never told anyone anything.

Jacquesson is probably big for a grower, but I think still qualifies. And they label cuvees with numbers largely based on specific vintages. It's a curious practice that is probably not the most user-friendly for non-geeks. But they are not exactly alone in those types of labeling practices!

They do it now. They didn’t in the past. Nobody did until the grower thing got going.