After almost a 15 month break, our long time Bordeaux group got together for dinner at Nice Matin. Nice service, a big open cabana to ourselves. While we caught up we had some fried baby artichoke, meze dips, tuna tartare, and a bottle off the list, the 2016 Bereche “ Les Monts Fournois” Coteaux Champenois blanc. A real unicorn, very interesting, lots of body, citrus, floral, and chalk. Fun to try. B+/B
On to the reds. As this was a long anticipated event, we went big with a 1st growth theme.
My starter was chicken sausage ravioli with morels and peas
1985 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Sweet, fairly delicate and mature, cigarbox and leather.. B/B+
1988 Ch. Haut Brion
A bit tight at first, but nice black fruit, mostly resolved tannin, lots of tobacco and leather. B+
1983 Ch. Margaux
A really great bottle of this. Elegant and long, black fruit with spice and smoke, classy finish. A-
My main was duck breast with gingery carrot puree, ramps, & maitakes
1990 Ch. Lafite Rothschild
Ripe, verging on roasted but not quite, some dirt and a little barnyard, B
1995 Ch. Lafite Rothschild
Surprisingly open though still structured, cassis with ferric notes and cedar, very good length. B+
1998 Ch. Haut Brion
Young and structured but strutting, sandalwood and spice over black currant and plum, great length. A-
1996 Ch. Lafite Rothschild
Dark fruit, graphite, broad tannins, I think this will be great but pretty reserved right now. For current drinking B+/B
1996 Ch. Latour
If Lafite is reserved this is positively brooding. Just all structure, but again confident this will be excellent. For now B
1986 Ch. Mouton Rothschild
Wow, I like to poke fun at Mouton’s ascent to first growth, but this is a fine argument for it. Powerful and young, plush black fruit with exotic spice, coffee, and cedar notes. Totally delicious. A-/A
In weighted voting
86 Mouton 20.5 points
83 Margaux 18
95 Lefite 8.5
98 HB 6
85 Mouton 1
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Really great to be with everyone in person. Fun night, except my mad sprint at Grand Central after world’s most clueless Uber driver turned a 12 minute drive into 25.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C
drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
