WTN + Q: Muré Landelin Gewurz VT 98, Pétalos '05

I opened a couple bottles today for my brother's birthday:

Descendientes de José Palacios Bierzo Pétalos 2005 14% 14,34€

Pétalos seems to be a rather nice drop indeed. Palacios's "better" cuvées were IMO rather too spoofy, but this is jolly nice. Ripe yet vegetal nose, with some Cab F -like notes: I understand why it was thought to be a relative of that grape. The palate is rather full bodied and sweet but not too spoofy. Fresh and long. A rather more serious wine that one would expect this to be considering Finnish pricing in general.

René Muré Gewürztraminer Vorbourg Clos Saint Landelin Vendanges Tardives 1998 12,5% 34,50€

Deep golden colour. The nose is mineral and spicy with true Gewurz aromatics, but though full on they are rather elegant, paradoxical though it is. It is becoming a bit waxy and even petrolly (is this a sign of a bit of age on Gewurz? - help a newbie to the grape! ). The palate is sweet (70g/l RS), noticably acidic (5,7g/l) for the grape which is always nice, mineral, and full bodied. Long.

I'm having a hard time coming to terms with this wine: it shows some truly lovable elements and even some elegance for the grape, yet it still seems a bit clunky and thick. Does it just need more age, though it seems perfectly drinkable and open and enjoyable now albeit in a style that I'm not too keen on?

I have only recently began exploring Gewurz (largely thanks to a couple of Trimbach's Seigneurs de Ribeaupierres which rocked), so would gladly hear recommendations for unclunky and mineral Alsace Gewurz (or for that matter anywhere else). All levels of sweetness are welcome.

TIA,
-o-

Good for you Otto! Alsace rocks. I think the VT is a tad on the young side but here come the emails!!! I cellar for quite a while ah-hum.

would gladly hear recommendations for unclunky and mineral Alsace Gewurz (or for that matter anywhere else). All levels of sweetness are welcome.

TIA,
-o-

Otto,

I just tasted a couple of knockout mineral and acid driven Alsatian Gewurz -Barmes Buecher Pfersigberg GC and Steingrubler GC 05's. Knowing your Alsace favorites, I think you'll really dig them.


Prost!
Bill

Otto,

I've had a few Mure wines over the years (all vintages from the nineties), mainly Clos Saint Landelin Riesling (not late-picked). I've experienced some variability in the style from year to year and a degree of bottle variation from the same wine. When on form, the 1997 CSL Riesling was simply brilliant, other bottles were, surprisingly, somewhat flat and dull (possibly partially scalped?). So, I'm a little confused with this producer's track record.

I believe the wine in question is causing you some trouble due to its "fatness" and "oiliness" (like you, something I'm not terribly fond of) - a regular trait in many of the Alsace late-picked varietals, but found, in my experience, more often in Gewurtztraminer than Pinot Gris, then Riesling, respectively. The producer 's "house" style may also be a major contributing factor here, too.

As to whether it will last - probably for a while, but the tell-tale signs of "petrol" and "wax" suggest this wine is well along the development curve.

Producers such as Trimbach, Hugel and Kuentz-Bas can/have/do make VT and SDGN more to my fancy - more in the leaner, linear, tighter, focussed style.

If you want to try another producer (which I take it, you don't!) making this flabby, fat style, try a bottle of Ernest Burn's wines - every example I've tried has been less than satisfactory to my tastes for the very reason you find this Mure wine difficult to (fully) enjoy.

Bill, David, thanks for the recommendations.

Things are looking a bit brighter for Finnish wine consumers. A specialist shop will open in Helsinki soon which will specialise in small production / limited allocation wines. Normally Alko will only buy wines that have huge production numbers so practically all Burgundy, Alsace, Germany, etc. is non existent in our selection. I'm hoping that I'll see some of the names you mentioned soon in this shop.

-Otto-

That is really good news Otto. Is it a privatized store?

Regards Bob.

That is really good news Otto. Is it a privatized store?

Regards Bob.

Unfortunately no. The monopoly will still stand, so it is only a specialised Alko. This means that we might get a better selection here, but prices will still generally be highway robbery. But any improvement is good.

-O-