Larry Schaffer did another Tercero tasting on Zoom last night. This time he offered sample bottles (I took the 4 oz. version) of five wines, all different from the prior Zoom six weeks ago.
We had a little extra fun this time, as my first shipment of sample bottles froze en route, destroying them when the plastic sample caps cracked to pieces. But Larry, the consummate customer professional he is, sent new samples that arrived in time! Bravo Larry!
Please note that I took a small taste (about 1 oz.) of each of these prior to the Zoom. That was both to check them (the sample bottles keep the wines impeccably fresh BTW), and just to get a first pass impression. My notes below are from running through the wines in a more structured way during the Zoom.
We started with the 2020 Tercero Clairette Blanche, which was in fact the first varietal Clairette Blanche I had ever tasted. With grapes sourced from the Santa Ynez Vineyard in Happy Canyon, Larry did a whole cluster pressing, with fermentation and (very brief) aging in older (6-15 years) French oak barrels. Aromatics were mostly lemon zest and petrichor, which had me preparing for an extreme level of austerity on the palate, but it had more depth than I expected. That being said it had brisk acidity (7 grams per Larry) that would satisfy many a dry Riesling drinker. Very clean and refreshing.
Next up was Larry’s iconic (yes, I meant to use that word) Rose, sourced from the Camp 4 Vineyard. The 2020 Tercero Mourvedre Rose smelled for all the world like freshly picked strawberries. The fruit got a little darker on the palate, adding some cherry tones, and then in the mid-palate there was this earthy depth, as Mourvedre decided to act like Mourvedre. Early to judge, but I think that middle depth bodes very well for this edition of a consistently delicious wine.
On to the reds, starting with the 2017 Tercero Carignane. I poured some, took a big whiff, and instantly thought “pipe tobacco.” It was so intense, and so obvious to me. I happen to enjoy the scent of unlit pipe tobacco, so it was also a good thing! After a while I started picking up more of the al dente…err…crunchy red fruit, and also some herbal and floral nuances. I really didn’t need to sip it, as I was just happy smelling it. New perfume coming, “Eau de Carignan” by Chanel. Taste was more the red fruit and herbs, which was also quite nice, but damn I love the aroma of this wine. Have to get some just to be able to smell it again.
Next up was the 2013 Tercero Grenache Watch Hill Vineyard. Larry called me out on the Zoom as a Grenache skeptic (he’s right), but this wine convinced me. I loved the dark cherry and spice aromatics (FYI – 100% whole cluster, foot stomped, 34 months in old French oak), and the palate had more of that mid-palate depth that I found so deliciously interesting in the Mourevedre Rose. This was mouthfilling but not heavy, and I was totally immersed in the texture. I had to pipe up on the Zoom to let Larry know that this Grenache convinced me.
Finally, we moved on to the 2013 Tercero Petite Sirah – La Presa. For the time being this was the last Petite that Larry has made, but it goes out on a high note. Grippy but not stern, I found this to be a more winey Petite, as opposed to the feral, sharp-clawed beast that so much Petite Sirah can be. Throw a piece of meat on the grill, and this could hit the spot.
Overall, it was another excellent Zoom. It made me order more wine, which is that last thing in the world that I need to do!