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WTN: France, Austria, Italy, Germany

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Dale Williams

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WTN: France, Austria, Italy, Germany

by Dale Williams » Tue Mar 02, 2021 5:16 pm

Momofuko recipe for sheetpan spicy pork chops and carrots
2015 Martin Mullen Trarbacher Huhnerberg Kabinett Trocken
Somewhat shrill, austere. I decided it wasn’t a good match. Actually better on day 3, but on day 1 B-/C+

2005 Descombes Morgon
I recently found a forgotten bottle nestled with some ‘09s, wondered if past it, but this was what I hope for in aged Cru Beaujolais. Red fruit, orange zest, a hint of barnyard. Acids still fresh, tannins resolved, elegant and long. A-


No wine Thursday (first Pfizer dose, didn’t want wine in case I needed ibuprofen -didn’t).

Friday some friends came over (tables in separate rooms facing doorway, air purifier in between).

Canapes Cockles in brine, Jamon Iberico
NV Bremont Cuvee Prestige Brut Champagne
Typical lovely bottle of this- Parker house rolls, crisp apple fruit, plenty of minerality, fine mousse. B+

Pork chops in a lemon-caper sauce, mashed sweet potatoes, kale
2014 Nikolaihof “Steiner Hund” Riesling (Wachau)
Stony, structured, good but very young. For drinking now B, but A- potential to me

2019 Terenzuola “Vigne Basse” Vermentino (Colli di Luni)
Light and a bit dilute, apple with a little grass, it’s wet and works as cooking wine. C+

Saturday we got one lobster as an appetizer
2019 Piuze “Terroir de Chablis” Chablis
Seriously good for Chablis AC. Crisp lemon and pear, chalky minerality, vibrant acids. B++
One more (petty I admit) reason I wish this whole pandemic was past is that I’d love to get a few people together to try all the village terroir wines together. Inconvenient for just Betsy and I!

Roast chicken, leftover sweet potatoes, spinach
2011 Chevillon Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes
I ran across this and thought “well they say 2011 is early drinking, and it is a village wine.” Well, it’s also Chevillon. Tannic and acidic structure, the fruit is there but held in check. B/B- for drinking now, I think this will be excellent but this might be my only bottle

Sunday another couple (same setup) we started with canapes (taramasalata and tzatziki) and then oysters
2008 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne
Full, moderate acids, mildly brioche-y, good but not a head turner. Disappointing in light of vintage rep. B

Main course was Fluke ssam , with side of baby Shanghai

2019 Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg Riesling GG

A baby but a stunning baby. Citrus, pit fruits, ginger, smoke. Nervy but not sharp, long and precise. A-

For our Zoom group, the 2004 Pradeaux Bandol (with leg of lamb, duck fat potatoes, kale). Pretty herby when first decanted, fruit deepens, but then it seemed to shut down into a wall of tannin and acid. Some discussion of whether it needs time, or if tannin will just dominate. At best point B+/B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C
drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency,
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: France, Austria, Italy, Germany

by David M. Bueker » Tue Mar 02, 2021 5:36 pm

Interesting set of wines.

Lyle pushes Mullen like he's the second coming of Egon Muller, but I have not found anyone who has been impressed so far.

I was too slow on seeking 2019 Schonleber. Got nothin. :evil:
Decisions are made by those who show up
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: France, Austria, Italy, Germany

by Rahsaan » Tue Mar 02, 2021 6:05 pm

Dale Williams wrote:2005 Descombes Morgon
I recently found a forgotten bottle nestled with some ‘09s, wondered if past it, but this was what I hope for in aged Cru Beaujolais. Red fruit, orange zest, a hint of barnyard. Acids still fresh, tannins resolved, elegant and long. A-


Nice. I'm a big Descombes fan and like what they do with 5-10 years of age, but not sure I've had one this old! Do I assume this was the VV or was this actually the regular?
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: France, Austria, Italy, Germany

by Dale Williams » Wed Mar 03, 2021 8:55 am

David, the Halenberg was great,if pricey. The Mineral is almost as good! When COVID lifts ......

Rahsaan, just the regular. Not an intentional hold, in a box with other stuff that was intentionally being held. Sometimes you get lucky
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: France, Austria, Italy, Germany

by Rahsaan » Wed Mar 03, 2021 9:22 am

Dale Williams wrote:Rahsaan, just the regular. Not an intentional hold, in a box with other stuff that was intentionally being held. Sometimes you get lucky


Wow. I guess 05 was a big year with lots of material. But nice that it could also merit the descriptors 'elegant' and 'long'.

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