Wine Focus (January) - Wine 101 Cabernet Sauvignon

[David M. Bueker]

Here we go. January 2021, and time for the most widely known red grape on the planet. Cabernet Sauvignon is made just about anywhere that wine is made, and it’s virtually always easy to find a bottle. As with anything so ubiquitous there is a lot of variability in quality, but the highs in Cabernet are some of the highest in all of wine.

So this month let’s explore Cabernet Sauvignon. At least in the northern hemisphere it’s the right season for food that works with a Cab. We’ll be covering red blends with Cabernet later in the year, so try to find one that is varietally labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon. It should not be that hard.

The only wines varietally labelled Cabernet Sauvignon in France are downmarket vins de cépage and I think the same goes for Italy and Spain. Luckily I have a few left from California, one or two of which I may open for this thread.

[David M. Bueker]

The only wines varietally labelled Cabernet Sauvignon in France are downmarket vins de cépage and I think the same goes for Italy and Spain. Luckily I have a few left from California, one or two of which I may open for this thread.

We'll cover you for the non-varietal Cabs later in the year.

Could be a quiet month for me. Great pity there is no Washington wine at hand, tough to find in my area.
Always a fan of Tahbilk (Oz) and Neil Ellis from SA. Interestingly my store downtown had some CS from Languedoc area .

[Jenise]

The only wines varietally labelled Cabernet Sauvignon in France are downmarket vins de cépage and I think the same goes for Italy and Spain. Luckily I have a few left from California, one or two of which I may open for this thread.

Spain: I know I've had some delicious cabs from Spain though it's particular to certain regions. Torres Mas de Planas (which I seem to think has a different name now, though I don't recall what)? Wouldn't call that downmarket.

The only wines varietally labelled Cabernet Sauvignon in France are downmarket vins de cépage and I think the same goes for Italy and Spain. Luckily I have a few left from California, one or two of which I may open for this thread.

Spain: I know I've had some delicious cabs from Spain though it's particular to certain regions. Torres Mas de Planas (which I seem to think has a different name now, though I don't recall what)? Wouldn't call that downmarket.

Jenise, AFAIK Mas de Planas is not front-labelled Cabernet Sauvignon but rather Penedès. Almost certainly varietal details are provided on the back label because Torres certainly doesn't attempt to conceal the Cab content.

I understand that US rules demand no more than 75% content of a variety to justify varietal labelling. Therfore, if I can find a left-banker which reaches or approaches that content, I'll feel justified in posting about it.

[Jenise]

I would bet David didn't mean to require a front label have the actual words on it, as that would exclude so many great wines from places where labelling is by region, not variety. I would guess the intent was only to exclude Bordeaux blends. In fact: I'm doing a Spanish pork dish tonight--perfect time to open my last Mas de Plana, and I'll report on it! Let the chips fall where they may.

[David M. Bueker]

Yes. This month is about wines that say Cabernet Sauvignon on the front label. Blends are later in the year.

That being said, as is normal for Wine Focus, we are flexible.

[David M. Bueker]

2018 Elyse Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley (1/3/2021)
The first vintage of Elyse Cabernet made by Russell Bevan, and it is indeed a “baby Bevan” wine, with the same textural elements as his eponymous wines, but on a smaller scale. Deep cassis and berry fruit, buffed tannins, silky palate presence, it’s all the finely honed, eminently drinkable Napa Cab. It’s a style of wine I profess to not like, but Russell somehow makes it cool. I can’t stop drinking it. A real bargain in the modern Napa Cab world.

CT tells me I have 450 bottles, but of those only one varietal Cabernet Sauvignon, and that's a 200ml Ontario Ice-Wine.

I've more varietal Cabernet Franc, including a Bordeaux 100% CF.

I'll sit this one out till we get to Bdx blends - got a lot of them...

In the meantime I'll add a late entry to last months fizz thread

Yes. This month is about wines that say Cabernet Sauvignon on the front label. Blends are later in the year.

That being said, as is normal for Wine Focus, we are flexible.

I understand your front label line when it comes to Cab but will you maintain it with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay. If so, it will exclude single varietal Burgundy and Beaujolais except for a few growers from outlying areas like the Mâconnais who do, illegally I think, put the variety on the front label. When it comes to Gamay, even in Touraine, the variety is not front labelled by leading growers like Henry Marionnet.

If so, ironically the Cab thread is the only single varietal one where I will be able to contribute thanks to a handful of Cali Cabs in my cellar.

[David M. Bueker]

Yes. This month is about wines that say Cabernet Sauvignon on the front label. Blends are later in the year.

That being said, as is normal for Wine Focus, we are flexible.

I understand your front label line when it comes to Cab but will you maintain it with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay. If so, it will exclude single varietal Burgundy and Beaujolais except for a few growers from outlying areas like the Mâconnais who do, illegally I think, put the variety on the front label. When it comes to Gamay, even in Touraine, the variety is not front labelled by leading growers like Henry Marionnet.

If so, ironically the Cab thread is the only single varietal one where I will be able to contribute thanks to a handful of Cali Cabs in my cellar.

No. If there was some grand tradition of blending Pinot and Chardonnay with other grapes then maybe the "front label" idea would still make sense, but it's rare, so let's just leave out the Chard/Aligote blends. Passetoutgrains is also out! Chablis and Bourgogne Blanc are OK. Beaujolais will be fine for GaMay, etc.

Varietal cabernet sauvignon ice wine? Did they ferment it on or off the skins? And here I thought the Lustau tintilla de Rota red Jerez that I have was the strangest thing that had been done to red grapes.

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

Varietal cabernet sauvignon ice wine? Did they ferment it on or off the skins? And here I thought the Lustau tintilla de Rota red Jerez that I have was the strangest thing that had been done to red grapes.

-Paul W.

I have run into ice wine from numerous red grapes, including CS, CF and Pinot Noir. There's a winery in BC that did several, and they flew off the shelves for a certain customer base.

Are they sweet red wines or vinified as white wine?

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

Are they sweet read wines or vinified as white wine?

-Paul W.

The ones I have seen are sweet, red and really freaking expensive.

Our first cab of the year was a Grgich Hills Estate 2010 estate grown Napa Valley Cab. It seemed ready to drink after about an hour of air time. It was a bit tight but opened up by the second day. It had a lot of fruit and licorice. The finish was long. I think I have 2 more bottles of this and gladly so.

[David M. Bueker]

2015 Enfield Wine Co. Cabernet Sauvignon Waterhorse Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Fort Ross - Seaview (1/5/2021)
When I want a wine with a distinct nod to the old world, I often reach for a bottle from Enfield Wine Co. John’s efforts with Cabernet Sauvignon do more than just nod to the old world, they are imbued with a soul that speaks to soil and spine. This particular bottle has a core of cool fruit, herbs and spice, that never ventures near overripeness. The texture is a little bumpy, the road not perfectly paved. There’s a touch of green in the mid-palate, reminding me that not every Cabernet has to be supple and rich like compote. The edges give definition, handles to grab onto, and a signals to an evolution that will still show form, rather than settle into a bland carpet of richness. My love for this style of wine is based on a relationship where the wine is a full partner, rather than just being subservient. It can participate, even challenge in the conversation, and not just nod its head in approval.

Beautiful note, David - makes we wish I could get this wine in BC.

[Jenise]

Love that note, David. We had two last night, socially distanced with pod-mates:

2012 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon The Classic Walla Walla Valley
Been opening a bottle of this about every six months for two years now, and no two have been alike. Had no technical flaws, but this one was the shy, dour spinster sister of last August's bottle with less black fruit, less Rocks funk, less everything. Food got her out of her chair just a bit, but we still couldn't get her to dance. (Decanted two hours.)

2014 Bevan Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon McGah Vineyard
This is anything but a spinster. She's that other girl at the party: overweight, flashy and loud, obviously on the hunt. Opaque black color but blue-magenta at the rim, rather unusual for a 7 year old wine. Extracted and dense, with bright, open flavors of blackberry cordial, blueberry pie and dark chocolate on grippy tannins. Decanted two hours, consumed over two hours and the last sip was the best, but at this stage, for the $$$ she's not compelling and at closing time, she's the only one left. I like the less expensive Ontogeny better. In fact, I can think of a lot of $40 cabs I've liked more.

[David M. Bueker]

2014 Bevan Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon McGah Vineyard
This is anything but a spinster. She's that other girl at the party: overweight, flashy and loud, obviously on the hunt. Opaque black color but blue-magenta at the rim, rather unusual for a 7 year old wine. Extracted and dense, with bright, open flavors of blackberry cordial, blueberry pie and dark chocolate on grippy tannins. Decanted two hours, consumed over two hours and the last sip was the best, but at this stage, for the $$$ she's not compelling and at closing time, she's the only one left. I like the less expensive Ontogeny better. In fact, I can think of a lot of $40 cabs I've liked more.

I keep trying Russell's higher end Cabs, and always end up preferring the Ontogeny. I have a few from 2017 & 2018 to try (including the vaunted Dr. Crane), so we'll see.

Are they sweet read wines or vinified as white wine?

-Paul W.

They are not red, but not white - more of a rose.

I don't explicitly know, and they don't say, but I think they crush the frozen grapes and then ferment the resulting juice, i.e. not with the skins, but some colour is picked up during crushing.

If they don't ferment just the squeezed out unfrozen sugar rich juice, but use the whole grape as in normal red wine production, then that would include the frozen water which the ice wine process is designed to avoid.


I've had Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon ice wines from wineries in Ontario and Finger Lakes, New York State: all have been pink rather than red.

see pix at https://malivoire.com/collections/icewi ... nc-icewine
and https://www.pillitteri.com/product/2017 ... ine-200ml/

[Jenise]

I keep trying Russell's higher end Cabs, and always end up preferring the Ontogeny. I have a few from 2017 & 2018 to try (including the vaunted Dr. Crane), so we'll see.

Just saw your note on the Elyse. In light of what we both just commented, is the Elyse a baby Ontegeny or more like his single vineyard cabs. The '14 McGah I just reported on and the three vintages of Ontogeny I've had are not the same style.

[David M. Bueker]

I keep trying Russell's higher end Cabs, and always end up preferring the Ontogeny. I have a few from 2017 & 2018 to try (including the vaunted Dr. Crane), so we'll see.

Just saw your note on the Elyse. In light of what we both just commented, is the Elyse a baby Ontegeny or more like his single vineyard cabs. The '14 McGah I just reported on and the three vintages of Ontogeny I've had are not the same style.

It’s different, but more Ontogeny than SV. I have an Elyse SV to try soon.