Paso wines, Tablas Creek, and the whole high abv thing

[Jenise]

So I'm having a conversation elsewhere with someone who is defending Paso Robles against a remark someone else made about the alcohol in a Washington wine, wherein he said "I thought this was Walla Walla, not Paso Robles!"

I laughed and sympathized, as did several others. And someone else is using Tablas Creek as proof that this generalization isn't true. I suppose he was reaching into his own cellar when he said: "Tablas Creek. I just pulled 3 red and 3 whites randomly. They topped out at 14.5% with the reds 13.0 - 14.5% and the whites 12.0 - 13.6%. A Lone Madrone Tannat was 14.4% (Tannat!). A A Denner, 14.0%." He admits that "A L'Aventure from '08 tipped the scales at an uncomfortably high 15.9% which I guess is why it's still there."

I can't remember what year our L.A. wine group went to Paso, maybe 2009 or 2010. But throughout that entire weekend I struggled to find wines that didn't taste sappy, jammy, or alcoholic. Alcohols averaged around 15%, monster zins were all the rage, and I remember talking to winemakers about the struggle to make lower alcohol wines while admitting that their fans wouldn't necessarily appreciate less.

I admit that I have avoided Paso wines ever since. The few that did find their way into my path either fit the sappy/high alcohol profile or were jammy and sweet in a way that reminds me of Raid bug spray. I can't stand either.

But answer me this Tom or Pat G or whoever: as a region, has Paso effectively reduced their alcohols? Though Tablas was better than most or all the others I know of, I don't remember running into or hearing about any others even close. Are there any?

The trouble is choosing Tablas Creek as the 'normal' Paso Robles winery: they are an outlier (i.e., much lower) in terms of alcohol levels. So they are NOT a good example at all.

I think many wineries are trying to decrease alcohol levels, but in my view the terroir/climate of that region is the main issue that can't be denied or changed. It is a hot region, and getting hotter. Night time temps are relatively high too, so high ripeness and low acidity are the norm.

I'm with you, Jenise, the Paso Robles region is the only region I have ever visited where my purchasing from the area actually went way down - from rare to practically never.

[David M. Bueker]

I cannot recall the last Paso wine I purchased.

I read a story about a Paso winery that is certified biodynamic, and the wines all top 15% alcohol.

[Jenise]

John, I don't think this guy is presenting Tablas as the norm so much as using it as proof that not all Paso wines are as bad as people like you and me think they are. And while when I visited I found Tablas wines the most agreeable in that area, I don't recall overall numbers as low as this guy's wines are. As in, I recall no reds under 14% and no whites under 13. It made me wonder if they're employing some kind of trickery to reduce alcohols more than before.

And I pointed out to him what you did to me: climate-wise Paso is what it is. I've often wondered if the Perrin family regrets their investment. You'd think they wouldn't have invested anywhere an American Beaucastel wasn't possible. They should have come to Washington.

David, I *do* remember the last Paso wine I bought. Awhile back a local store talked me into trying a Field Recordings Cab Franc. Awful--bug spray again.

Jenise,
The guy is using TCV as a straw man. In terms of alcohol, TCV is a real outlier. Their alcohols are consistently on the low side for Paso. And I can guarantee you the don't use any trickery to get those levels, not even watering back. I do recall some whites down around 12.0%, but none below that. Even at these lower alcohols, the wines are still packed with plenty of flavor.
But most of the big guns (Saxum, l'Aventure/etc have a alcohols in the 14-16% range.
There are a few other wineries who show more restraint, like Eberle and Giornata.
But I don't see a lot of discussion on intentionally aiming for lower alcohols by Paso wineries.
Tom

I've often wondered if the Perrin family regrets their investment. You'd think they wouldn't have invested anywhere an American Beaucastel wasn't possible. They should have come to Washington.

I really agree that they picked the wrong region, and WA would have been a better choice. Can you imagine what they could do with all the Rhone varieties in WA, especially in The Rocks area?!? Maybe we should start a petition to get them into WA!?!

[Jenise]

Jenise,
The guy is using TCV as a straw man. In terms of alcohol, TCV is a real outlier. Their alcohols are consistently on the low side for Paso. And I can guarantee you the don't use any trickery to get those levels, not even watering back. I do recall some whites down around 12.0%, but none below that. Even at these lower alcohols, the wines are still packed with plenty of flavor.
But most of the big guns (Saxum, l'Aventure/etc have a alcohols in the 14-16% range.
There are a few other wineries who show more restraint, like Eberle and Giornata.
But I don't see a lot of discussion on intentionally aiming for lower alcohols by Paso wineries.
Tom

I like their wines. Eberle too. Giornata is new to me.

[Jenise]

Can you imagine what they could do with all the Rhone varieties in WA, especially in The Rocks area?!? Maybe we should start a petition to get them into WA!?!

Yeah, just imagine if they'd got the Reynvaan property first. Wow. Btw, while looking for something Rhone-y to go with dinner last night, I checked a lot of my WA syrahs. A Horsepower Tribe is just 13.2%, and basically all others were 14.4 or under with the exception of a The Walls grenache at 15.4. Made me laugh, it was a The Walls Syrah at 15.4% that got the Paso reaction in the first place.

Jenise, we have, within the last year, purchased TC Pinot Noir (12.7%), Mourvedre (14.5%), Cotes de Tablas Red Blend (14.5%). I agree that TC is an outlier, and that vineyards in a hot climate can result in higher-alcohol, "hot" wines. We saw a few in stores but didn't buy. Many had just the Paso Robles AVA rather than one of the newer sub-AVAs/districts.

We visited Paso last year. But bought very little Cab Sauv and Zin, due to the wide variety of other interesting grapes. Our only Zin purchase was a Turley Paper Street, Paso AVA, 15.3%.

Bought no Cabs but quite a list of other reds and blends. Compared to prior visits there was so much from which to choose.

As always, your mileage may vary.

[Jenise]

Pat, on that trip to Paso I mentioned above, I expected to bring back a case of vinuous souveniers, but after tasting all day for three days I only encountered nine bottles that 'passed'. Once I got home, however, those wines that tasted less jammy and alcoholic there among their peers were conspicuously both here at home among my stash of lesser domestic and imported wines. So my question about Paso in this post was really, has it changed much? The answer appears to be 'no', there's just no impetus to make the kind of wines I prefer. Big, jammy, alcoholic--that's the Paso brand.