by Paul Winalski » Thu Dec 10, 2020 12:03 pm
Back in the bad old days, before the varietal wine revolution, many US producers marketed their wines under European appellation names. So you had US domestic "burgundy", "chablis", "Rhine wine", "claret", "hock", etc. "Burgundy" was sort of a generic name for red wine and "chablis" similarly a generic white wine name. "Sweet chablis" was a sweet white wine. The point behind the "chablis" part was that wine non-geeks associated that name with white wine in general. I think that's what Prine was referring to. I've read that Gallo at one point had a big tank of generic white wine that fed two bottling lines. One got labeled "chablis" and the other "Rhine wine".
Then two things happened. Varietal labeling became trendy and the old generic terms such as "burgundy" and "chablis" became increasingly associated with cheap plonk. And then the EU started cracking down on the misappropriation of appellation names. They eventually got the US to agree to abandon the practice. Use of European regional and appellation names was banned, but there was a grandfather clause for existing products. Gallo Hearty Burgundy is one of those holdovers.
-Paul W.