WTN /WineAdvisor: Bottom-feeding Burgundy (Paul Pernot 05 Bourgogne PN)

[Robin Garr]

Bottom-feeding Burgundy

Continuing this week's efforts to catch a glimpse of the glory of Burgundy by "bottom-feeding," let's turn from Monday's inquiry into a generic Bourgogne Pinot Noir from a very large producer - Louis Jadot - for a look at a similar red Burgundy from a very small one, Paul Pernot et ses fils.

Pernot sells a lot of his own wine to large firms, too. But he also makes some of his own, ranging from high-end wines to pleasant villages wines and simple Bourgogne varietal wines, including today's featured wine, a 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir.

According to New York's Burgundy Wine Co., a leading U.S. Burgundy merchant, "Paul Pernot is a quiet man most comfortable among vines or working in his cellars. Much of his wine is sold to a leading negociant. His <I>1er Cru Folatières</i> is often considered the finest wine from this vineyard ... His <i>Pucelles</i>, located next to <i>Bienvenues</i>, is unusually powerful. He also makes powerful <i>Bienvenues-Montrachets</i> and <i>Bâtard-Montrachets</i>, as well as a fine Bourgogne Blanc and village <i>Puligny-Montrachet</i>.

Importer Joe Dressner agrees, noting on his Website that the Pernot family wines "are well-known throughout the world for classic Puligny and Bâtard style. They have rich concentration and fruit, but more importantly, good acidity that allow them to age gracefully and harmoniously."

We're talking about high-end Burgundy here, well removed from the bargain-bin territory that I'm trolling today; but as Dressner points out, the Pernot estate has enlarged its holdings in Pinot Noir over the years, and among many bottlings produces the Bourgogne rouge featured below.

As much as I enjoyed Monday's 2004 Bourgogne Pinot Noir from the large Beaune negoçiant Louis Jadot, I've got to give Pernot's 2005 the edge in this comparison match. Even allowing for vintage and freshness working in its favor, the Pernot stands out as a classic example of Burgundy with its well-turned balance of fruit and earth, mouth-watering acidity and appealing combination of light body and concentration.

I've asked my associates at French Wine Explorers to make every effort to arrange a visit to Paul Pernot et ses fils during our Burgundy tour in July, and hope it will work out so our group can meet the wine maker and taste his wines on site. Click for information on this July 2-7 tour.

<table border="0" align="right" width="170"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/pern1219.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Paul Pernot 2005 Bourgogne Pinot Noir ($15.99)

Clear bright ruby, not too dark. Distinct red-cherry scent; crisp and fresh cherry-berry fruit and an attractive strain of minerality over a light-bodied but tart acidic structure. U.S. importer: LDM Wines Inc., NYC; Louis/Dressner Selections. (Dec. 19, 2006)

<B>FOOD MATCH:</b> Splendid with a classic red-meat match, locally grown lamb chops pan-seared medium rare.

<B>VALUE:</B> As noted in Monday's edition, you're simply not going to find a $10 Burgundy any more (and if you do, I'd frankly be intrigued but wary. But this well-balanced, fresh and enjoyable wine certainly justifies its mid-teens price.

<B>WHEN TO DRINK:</B> It's not intended as a long-term keeper, but if you're lucky, even modest Burgundies from good vintages like this one can deliver a pleasant surprise after several years of cellaring.

<B>PRONUNCIATION:</B>
<B>Bourgogne</B> = "<I>Boor-GON-yuh</I>"
<B>Pernot</B> = "<I>Pehr-no</I>"

<B>WEB LINK:</B>
Here's a short info sheet about Paul Pernot and his sons and their Burgundy properties from the U.S. importer's Website:
http://www.louisdressner.com/Pernot/

<B>FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:</B>
I picked up this wine and the excellent 2005 Bourgogne Chardonnay from Chambers Street Wines in NYC,
https://www.chambersstwines.com
Check prices and find other vendors for Paul Pernot Bourgogne on Wine-Searcher.com:
[url=http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Pernot%2bBourgogne/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP]http://www.wine-searcher.com/
find/Pernot%2bBourgogne/-/-/USD/A?referring_site=WLP[/url]

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Robin,

Thanks for this note. I have tried the 05 Bourgogne blanc from Paul Pernot and liked it. It has a little of the Puligny character and is affordable.

I am always on the lookout for value red burgundies and it sounds like this one qualifies. On aging, I've heard both things about basic Bourgognes. Some say they are meant for early drinking, but I've also heard that they can age and mature and even improve from age 8 - 12+ years. They may never have the complexity of an aged higher cru, but can be worthwhile. I guess a lot depends on the producer and the vintage.

Best,
Marc Davis

I liked this wine, too (was less thrilled with '04 version, but it was certainly ok). But in my opinion real strength of this domaine is whites. The '05 Bourgogne Blanc that Marc mentions is a great value, kind of a mini-Puligny. And on a couple different occasions I've seen the Pernot Bienvenues blow away much more expensive Grand Crus. Thanks for note. Hope you get to visit!