To honor Jayson driving through town, John S and I were invited to dine in VLM’s backyard. We arrived to a lovely spread, with each guest given his own socially-distanced table. VLM and Stephanie presided from their head table, and treated us to a delicious series of courses.
We started with a sumptuous mostly-NC cheese plate and the three 2019 Huet secs. All were correct and delicious, and preferences were largely a matter of taste. Jayson and I preferred the Le Mont because of that great tactile tension. I think I heard others preferring the Clos du Bourg for the depth. Not sure anyone voted for Le Haut Lieu but it was a fine wine in its own way. All should get better with time.
To remind us what happens over the course of decades, John opened the 1949 Huet Le Haut Lieu Moelleux. Unlike some people, I can’t make detailed comparisons of how different bottles of this have shown, but we had a very fine one last night. Deep dried apricot flavors and a lovely weathered texture. Well worth rolling around the mouth for a while, and in no danger of falling apart or fading away.
VLM wanted to show what American winemakers could do with chenin in France, so he opened a 2019 Brendan Stater-West Saumur Blanc. It was interesting, but probably not the right crowd for showing its best. Felt pale thin and sour after the Huets, but would probably feel fresh lively and refreshing on its own with some nice light fare.
The next course upped the complexity, a marinated tuna belly and scallop dish, with padron peppers and tomatoes harvested steps from our seats in the backyard garden. This went well with the 2015 Heymann-Löwenstein Winninger Uhlen "R" Roth Lay. A fine moment to interject riesling into the evening. Screwcapped and gassy at first, but the golden yet firm and savory fruit is very nice. Stacked, layered, yet fresh, and plays a very nice role at the table. A bottle from this summer had shown a more verdant streak, which I enjoyed. This one was more golden, which I also enjoyed.
At this point people wanted red wine, and Jayson had opened 2018 Domaine des Marnes Blanches Poulsard, which was fresh, drinkable and delicious. I must admit I couldn’t pay too much attention to its pleasures, with all the witty banter and the rising level of alcohol in my system. But, I did latch onto the 2017 Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne which was so juicy and drinkable. I’ve seen a range of styles of 2017, but it’s been especially fun and welcome to find the ones that are so easily delicious and in proper proportions. Nothing wrong with that.
As we moved to the mushroom tart and salad, VLM wanted to test whether it was still worth drinking Rougeard. So out came the 2003 Clos Rougeard Saumur Champigny Le Bourg, in its own retro wine cradle. There was some initial lively debate as Jayson remarked on the brett that VLM thought was reduction. Not sure where we ended on that, but it didn’t matter because the wine was so delicious. So deep, so black, so fleshy, yet so focused, muscled and well-proportioned. No 2003 caricature here, although we discussed how the better Loire reds had already been exceptions to that caricature upon release.
Our final course was a delicious plum tart. While those of us named Jayson had the palate control to circle back to the dry whites, VLM and I moved to another dimension. He was kind enough to pour the Camut Privilège Calvados 18 ans. I have a bottle of the 12 ans on the way, which I am sure will be lovely. But I’ll have to try not to think back too hard on this 18 ans! Fragrant and fine, exactly what I love. He also poured Guillon Painturaud Hors d’Age Cognac as a preview, as I do have this on the way. Again, a spirit with such lovely finesse. Two perfect endnotes for an evening filled with finesse!