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WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

by Bill Spohn » Thu Oct 01, 2020 4:41 pm

Notes from a small group tasting of Burgundies.

Fortunately the weather cooperated and we could do a tasting outside. I started them out with a blind starter that had them guessing one white Burgundy or another, but it was a ringer I had evaluated and thought would pass as a decent replica of what they would have expected.

2016 El Enemigo Chardonnay – this Argentinean chard made as a joint venture between Ale Vigil as winemaker and Adrianna Catena of Catena Zapata. I had read reviews that stressed the buttery character, which is not something I want to see in a white Burg, so I popped a cork on one a week ahead to check it out and found a very even handed approach with only mild vanilla in the nose, nowhere near as much as many US examples, and some excellent apple and pear fruit notes. Mid straw colour, and resembling a Burg (not enough flint to be a Chablis). Relatively low terminal acidity and very tasty with at least medium length. Good!

2001 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Bressandes –mature mahogany colour, and a very pretty tea based nose with some violet, smooth and medium bodied on palate with elegance and decent length. Decent showing from a middling vintage. No point holding this much longer.

2009 Thibault Liger-Belair Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru La Charmotte – slightly darker wine with excellent fruit in the nose, sweet and long in the mouth with some nice spice showing up toward the end. It added some floral and cocoa notes to the nose as it opened up.

2005 Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens – darker again, with a sweet Pinot nose, soft tannins, lots of black fruit and medium length. Very decent.

2010 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – dark wine, bright fruit, Sweet entry with lots of strawberry fruit, and good length. Bit closed perhaps right now – monitor over the next decade.

2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Chambertin – interesting brown sugar nose with red fruit. Medum body, good up front acidity, tasty and with medium length.

Can’t think of a better way to spend a sunny afternoon these days. Next month – Brunello!
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Re: WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

by Jenise » Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:23 pm

Bill, I've had the Enemigo twice, '16 and '17. Very different wines--BUT, when I read your note I thought you must have had the later one. Nope, you had the '16 which I didn't like a bit and can't imagine turning into the wine you had--a year ago, no way it could have passed for white burgundy:

2017 El Enemigo Chardonnay Mendoza January 2020
Hated the '16--heavily oaked, sappy--but this is very different. Dialed back, pale color with an unusual aroma/flavor I couldn't put a name to but liked a lot. After reading that this is made under flor, I get it. Quite beguiling, actually.

2016 El Enemigo Chardonnay Mendoza September 2019
Apparently a high pointy wine though not sure which critic, this bright golden wine over-reaches with strong and concentrated bitter almond notes and an almost-sappy finish. I can see why others recommended it served colder as that would hobble the excesses. Did not care for it.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

by David M. Bueker » Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:32 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:Notes from a small group tasting of Burgundies.
2001 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Bressandes –mature mahogany colour, and a very pretty tea based nose with some violet, smooth and medium bodied on palate with elegance and decent length. Decent showing from a middling vintage. No point holding this much longer.


I have the 2002. Perhaps I will dig one out this fall.
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Re: WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

by Bill Spohn » Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:45 pm

Jenise - I served mine at cellar temp (13 C/55F) rather than fridge (c. 40 F) which would turn them dumb until they warmed. Wonder if you had an odd bottle. Among the crew were critical Burg drinkers and they were ready to guess it as a Burg.

David - do that and report back - those two vintages have gone back and forth as to which is best at a given time.
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Re: WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

by Jenise » Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:52 pm

Both bottles we had were at cellar temp too--I was only referring to comments on CT at the time recommending the colder service. Definitely not a 'dumb' or off bottle, just one that tasted like deliberately tropical California mess--and one that was its exact opposite.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

by Bill Spohn » Thu Oct 01, 2020 7:56 pm

Hmm - I opened one bottle first to make sure it would be interesting to taste in the Burgundy context and then the second one at the event and both showed consistently.
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Re: WTN: Merode Thibault Bouley Vogue Bouchard

by Jenise » Fri Oct 02, 2020 10:04 am

Well, and you know how much I love white burgundy, I would know the difference too. And this was someone else's bottle at an all-chardonnay blind tasting. Must have been extreme lot variations in '16.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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