5 decades of Rioja

I decided to draft an article as the follow up to the epic Rioja wine tasting I organised some time ago to my fellow wine enthusiasts. I am sharing my 10 insights you might find useful along with tasting notes and some facts about Rioja.

5 Decades of Rioja

Fascinating tasting, Stas.

Visiting Spain on business in the late 60s and early 70s, the quality of Rioja like Marquès de Riscal and Murrieta, then absurdly cheap, was a real revelation and, later on, some of my best wine memories are of Viña Real and Imperial from the 50s, 60s and 70s tasted in the early 00s.

Availability of top class Rioja being limited here in France I am down to two or three bottles of Contino, 01 and 14 I think. However, I have found here that one or two young Riojas from little known producers are good quaffing wines competitive with but different from, say, Beaujolais at c.€10/bottle. Also there is Toro of similar QPR from French connection producers like Lurton..

You don't mention Hermanos Peciña, which is a recent Bodega making wines in the traditional style. I was very impressed by their range of Crianza through to GR which a friend was importing into Belgium where I lived till early 2014.

Thank you, Tim!

Well noted Hermanos Peciña. I haven't come across their wines, but will definitely put on my watch list.

Thank you for the link and the info, Stas. I so agree with the value of Rioja vs. other countries. For that reason, Spain/Portugal are within my tier 1 cellar strategy.

Do you have an opinion on the following wine?

Abadia Retuerta, Red Blend, 2015, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Y Leon, 2015 (or other vintages).

I have the above wine in my cellar. Received as gift and purchased at our LWS. It was recommended to me at a trade tasting because the vineyard is nearby where Vega Sicilia is grown and has the potential to be similar without the Vega Sicilia price.

We have had various CVNE wines and all of them are good with a great QPR.

Any input is welcome. Thanks again for the great reference piece.

Thank you so much, Pat for your support! That means a lot to me. Every time I post something, I am afraid it won't resonate and I will get unwanted critics. I am fine with critics, especially when there is constructive feedback I can improve on. But sometimes it is tough when my findings contradict with well established opinion. Luckily, this article is not such case ))

The wine you mentioned must be a great wine. That's not Rioja, but sub region of RdD. Big 200ha estate with oenologist from Chateau Ausone working for them. Quite young project (1996). This particular wine is the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Tempranillo. So that's more like Spanish Super Tuscan )) I think 2015 is too young to be enjoyed now and I would lay down this bottle for a few years to gain some bottle age.

Looking forward to hearing your impressions once you uncork it.

FWIW Stas, you write well. Key takeaways are great idea. The details were so good that I've taken some notes for my self-created study guide.

As far as the wine, I currently have it planned for 2024. Label lists about 2/3 Tempranillo, followed by Cab Sauv then Merlot, then etc. Acquired for <$30.

Your backstory info is quite helpful.

Great info there..bookmarked!

Hi Stat

I note you don't like 'unwanted critics' but are OK with constructive criticism - I don't know how you'll take this - hopefully as the latter or just as a comment

On your 10 useful conclusions and observations, I struggled with No. 3

A good ripe Rioja is a serious quality wine, which has nothing to do with 90% of supermarket wines from the same production region. Miracles do not happen here either. Don’t be fooled with the wine labeled Rioja Gran Reserva you find on the shelf in the supermarket. It doesn’t guarantee the quality and enjoyment of the contents of such a bottle.

because it doesn't follow from your tasting. I can't see that any of the wines you had disappointed or came from a supermarket.
The last sentence begs the question, well what does?

And do you mean all supermarkets all over the world? I don't know the supermarkets in Rioja but might they have good Riojas? Although you do say that 10% of supermarket Rioja's are 'serious quality wine'. And does your blast against supermarkets automatically mean that Rioja in any shop that isn't a supermarket is a 'serious quality wine'?

I suggests an alternative wording along the lines of:
The words Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva on a bottle of or Rioja guarantees only the manner and how long wine has been aged. It doesn’t guarantee the quality and enjoyment of the contents of such a bottle.

That may be followed by cost or the producer's name being a better guide.

And for your next article, how about a blind tasting of the same vintages of Grans Reservas bought from supermarkets against your choice of Gran Reservas ?

[David M. Bueker]

Then there are the places where it is illegal for supermarkets to sell wine.

[David M. Bueker]

As far as the wine, I currently have it planned for 2024. Label lists about 2/3 Tempranillo, followed by Cab Sauv then Merlot, then etc. Acquired for <$30.

Your backstory info is quite helpful.

It's worth noting that Abadia Retuerta is has nothing in common with Vega Sicilia, except for relative proximity. That said, they make very good wines, but in a very modern (i.e. ripe, rich) style. 2024 is probably a good time to look into your bottle.

Hi Stat

I note you don't like 'unwanted critics' but are OK with constructive criticism - I don't know how you'll take this - hopefully as the latter or just as a comment

On your 10 useful conclusions and observations, I struggled with No. 3

A good ripe Rioja is a serious quality wine, which has nothing to do with 90% of supermarket wines from the same production region. Miracles do not happen here either. Don’t be fooled with the wine labeled Rioja Gran Reserva you find on the shelf in the supermarket. It doesn’t guarantee the quality and enjoyment of the contents of such a bottle.

because it doesn't follow from your tasting. I can't see that any of the wines you had disappointed or came from a supermarket.
The last sentence begs the question, well what does?

And do you mean all supermarkets all over the world? I don't know the supermarkets in Rioja but might they have good Riojas? Although you do say that 10% of supermarket Rioja's are 'serious quality wine'. And does your blast against supermarkets automatically mean that Rioja in any shop that isn't a supermarket is a 'serious quality wine'?

I suggests an alternative wording along the lines of:
The words Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva on a bottle of or Rioja guarantees only the manner and how long wine has been aged. It doesn’t guarantee the quality and enjoyment of the contents of such a bottle.

That may be followed by cost or the producer's name being a better guide.

And for your next article, how about a blind tasting of the same vintages of Grans Reservas bought from supermarkets against your choice of Gran Reservas ?

Hi Peter!

Thank you for your feedback. I take it as a gift.
I agree that was a generalisation. Actually, I like the way you phrased it.

And I accept the challenge of blind tasting hand picked GR vs supermarket ones.

It's a pity that Victor de la Serna no longer lurks round here. He might have some interesting observations on Stas' note. IIRC he postulated some years ago that good "modern" style Rioja would converge in taste profile with good "traditional" after a decent period of ageing. With a longer track record nowadays it would be fascinating to know if that prediction is confirmed. My own experience of "modern" is too thin to comment other than that I loved the showing of several 90s vintages from Contino (supposedly on the modern side) at around 15 years of age.

And I accept the challenge of blind tasting hand picked GR vs supermarket ones.

The results would depend on the country in which you are doing your supermarket shopping. For example, the availability of good GR Rioja in a UK supermarket, e.g. Waitrose, is likely to be far superior to that in a French or Belgian supermarket, where I can't recall having seen one.

It's a pity that Victor de la Serna no longer lurks round here. He might have some interesting observations on Stas' note. IIRC he postulated some years ago that good "modern" style Rioja would converge in taste profile with good "traditional" after a decent period of ageing. With a longer track record nowadays it would be fascinating to know if that prediction is confirmed. My own experience of "modern" is too thin to comment other than that I loved the showing of several 90s vintages from Contino (supposedly on the modern side) at around 15 years of age.

Here are my notes from an interesting tasting we had some time ago comparing older vintages of Contino and MdR

• 1975 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (19.06.2017)
  
  My personal winner of the evening. Stunning wine! Ultimate expression of great Riscal! Feels much stronger and lively even
  compared to ‘81. Perfumed aromas of fruits, spices, citrus, some toast and wood. Complex and rich. Powerful and elegant.
  Blend with international varieties: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Matured min 3 years in American oak. (96 pts.)
  
  
  
• 1974 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (19.06.2017)
  
  ‘74 is the very 1st vintage of Contino when it all started. So thrilled to approach the roots and taste the history. Wine is in perfect shape. Opens up with wet mop aromas, but not repellent. Very smooth and round on the palate and reveals its age compared to the younger vintages. Finish with unusual vivid lipstick flavour. Overall demonstrates signature style of Contino. (94 pts.)
  
  
  
• 1982 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (19.06.2017)
  
  Kicked off the event with this ‘82 Contino in perfect shape. Perfumed with lots of fruits, some chocolate. Round and silky on the palate. Good acidity and structure.
  ‘81 and ‘82 are two best vintages in that decade.
  85% Tempranillo blend.
  Viñedos del Contino is ‘château concept’ 62ha single vineyard estate in Rioja Alavesa started in 1973 as alliance of CVNE and the owners of Finca San Rafael. (92 pts.)
  
  
  
• 1982 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (19.06.2017)
  
  Opens up with sugary confiture of black fruits, develops into honey. Rich and velvet on the palate. Leather, tobacco. Finish with spice and smoke. On par with Contino of the same vintage.
  Blend: 90% tempranillo, 10% Graciano & Mazuelo
  Marqués de Riscal is one of the fathers of Rioja who brought French winemaking techniques from Bordeaux and found the estate in 1858. (92 pts.)
  
  
• 1980 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (19.06.2017)
  
  Opens up with autumn wet leaves and mud aromas. Soaked lingberry on the palate that later develops in somewhat jammy. More acidity compared to other vintages.
  Interesting wine with distinguished style of Contino. Weaker compared to other wines of the tasting.
  Wine is aged in both French and American oak for minimum of 3 years. Blend: 85% Tempranillo, 10% Cane, 4% Graciano, 1% Garnacha. It was the last year when it was bottled in Burgundy shape bottle. (90 pts.)
  
  
• 1980 Marqués de Riscal Rioja Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja (19.06.2017)
  
  Unfortunately the wine was faulty. High shoulder level, cork is fine. Seems like stressed with hot temperatures.
  Nevertheless ‘80 was not the great vintage in Rioja. NR (flawed)