WTN: Burgundy Bust

[Jenise]

Opened last night for a Meatless Monday dinner of boiled, crushed fresh potatoes I grew myself and dug up Sunday topped with butter and shaved black truffles. On the same plate, sliced tomatoes with parsley and cucumbers with red onion. Old pinot and truffles are my idea of a match made in heaven, hence this wine. Unfortunately, the meal was up to the task but the wine wasn't:

2005 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Pinot Noir
Disappointed. In 2016 I said this about this wine: "Very balanced, with lengthy finish. I want every 11 year old Burgundy I open to drink just like this." The 2020 report from last night is a lot less favorable: muddy, very ripe fruit, lacks acidity. I do NOT want every 15 year old Burgundy I open to drink just like this.

Too bad. Although if anything, the great showing in 2016 is the greater surprise! 2005 is still a tough vintage and Chandon de Briailles is not known for approachable wines. (Although in my experience the Caillerets is less backwards than the Ile).

[David M. Bueker]

Don’t have the Volnay. I do have some other 2005 CdB wines. Will dig one out.

I have three of their 2006 vintage, but no 2005s. I've always found CdB to be a reliable producer. Sorry to hear that 2005 fell down on the job.

-Paul W.

I've always found CdB to be a reliable producer.

Be careful if you buy recent vintage Lavieres. They're bottling a no sulfur version that is more approachable and gulpable than what you probably expect, but it's also much less reliable for those of us who don't purchase direct in Savigny! They are also bottling a more traditional version with sulfur, although even there 'tradition' is evolving as they are humans and have been tinkering with style from vintage to vintage.