August Wine Focus: Grapes named Blanc

2016 Clos Henri Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand. 13.5% abv. Organic grapes. Screwcap. The wine is straw in color. The nose is very fresh and invigorating with grapefruit, lemon and slightly grassy herbs. On the palate it is crisp and tart, speaking of an acidic spine. It has a long finsih. I feel this is a cut above the typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and its price reflects this. Still, I would usually favor a Sancerre S. B. over this Kiwi example. I awarded it 89 points on CellarTracker--a good N.Z. example.

Michel Autran, Vin de France, Les Enfers Tranquilles, 2017

Michel Autran is a former E.R. specialist who turned to winemaking in his 40's. If that wasn't oddball enough, after 5 years in Vouvray he rebelled against what he considered the appellation's low standards of quality and decided to release all his wines under the humble Vin de France label. Thus, this is a actually a Vouvray, ergo Chenin Blanc. The wine takes a while to blow off acetic notes on the nose to show peaches, melons and a mineral strain that initially impresses as chalk before becoming more and more ash-like. The label claims 14% ABV, but the fruit is lively for all that, with a firm mineral backbone and a spicy finish, that pulls back its power in favor of expression. It's quite unique. I've tasted a fair share of Loire Chenins, and I've never drunk anything quite like it. It feels as though someone blended the bone dry intensity of Savenierres with the plump fruit of Vouvray. It's quite captivating, especially the nose, possibly the most interesting white brought in by the local importer. (Aug. 18, 2020)

Sounds interesting. I've heard the name but haven't had the chance to try his wines. But isn't Vouvray on the label? At least for the Ciel Rouge cuvee.

Michel Autran, Vin de France, Les Enfers Tranquilles, 2017

Michel Autran is a former E.R. specialist who turned to winemaking in his 40's. If that wasn't oddball enough, after 5 years in Vouvray he rebelled against what he considered the appellation's low standards of quality and decided to release all his wines under the humble Vin de France label. Thus, this is a actually a Vouvray, ergo Chenin Blanc. The wine takes a while to blow off acetic notes on the nose to show peaches, melons and a mineral strain that initially impresses as chalk before becoming more and more ash-like. The label claims 14% ABV, but the fruit is lively for all that, with a firm mineral backbone and a spicy finish, that pulls back its power in favor of expression. It's quite unique. I've tasted a fair share of Loire Chenins, and I've never drunk anything quite like it. It feels as though someone blended the bone dry intensity of Savenierres with the plump fruit of Vouvray. It's quite captivating, especially the nose, possibly the most interesting white brought in by the local importer. (Aug. 18, 2020)

Sounds interesting. I've heard the name but haven't had the chance to try his wines. But isn't Vouvray on the label? At least for the Ciel Rouge cuvee.

Interesting indeed. I'll look out for his wines. Chidaine and Jacky Blot had the Vouvray appellation taken away because they vinify and bottle in Montlouis . However they were already well known and did not suffer commercially. It's brave of Michel Autran to take the risk voluntarily.

The Spier 21 Gables Chenin Blanc remains my top wine of this months Focus but the following Saumur Blanc has excellent memorable pedigree!!

2019 Cave de Saumur Saumur Blanc Les Pouches.

Well-recognised cooperative, $22 Cdn, 13% alc, SC. 100% CB, 45 yr old vines on a select parcel "Les Pouches".
Light straw color, no green. Nose is light with floral and citrus tones. Minerality shines through with apple and delicate white stonefruit.
Initial entry thought is dry, very good acidity and nice fruit balance. Great mid-palate with unripe apple and pear. The wine held up terrific over 3 days and is a "return-must-buy" for sure. A wonderful Chenin Blanc from Saumur.

Michel Autran, Vin de France, Les Enfers Tranquilles, 2017

Michel Autran is a former E.R. specialist who turned to winemaking in his 40's. If that wasn't oddball enough, after 5 years in Vouvray he rebelled against what he considered the appellation's low standards of quality and decided to release all his wines under the humble Vin de France label. Thus, this is a actually a Vouvray, ergo Chenin Blanc. The wine takes a while to blow off acetic notes on the nose to show peaches, melons and a mineral strain that initially impresses as chalk before becoming more and more ash-like. The label claims 14% ABV, but the fruit is lively for all that, with a firm mineral backbone and a spicy finish, that pulls back its power in favor of expression. It's quite unique. I've tasted a fair share of Loire Chenins, and I've never drunk anything quite like it. It feels as though someone blended the bone dry intensity of Savenierres with the plump fruit of Vouvray. It's quite captivating, especially the nose, possibly the most interesting white brought in by the local importer. (Aug. 18, 2020)

Sounds interesting. I've heard the name but haven't had the chance to try his wines. But isn't Vouvray on the label? At least for the Ciel Rouge cuvee.

I think he left the appellation starting with 2017.

My store downtown always brings in some "ready-to-drink" summer whites so seeing the word "blanc" on the label was all I needed..especially as it comes from one of my fave appellations Gascony!

2018 Domaine de Pellehaut Cotes de Gascogne Harmonie de Gascogne Blanc.

SC, 11.5% alc, $20 Cdn. 20% Sauv Blanc, 25% Colombard, 35% Ugni Blanc, 10% Chardonnay, 10% Gros and Petit Manseng. Winery well-known for their Armagnacs.

Light yellow color, nice lemony nose with apple and some tropical fruits. Pear and grapefruit as it opened.
Dryish entry, seemed easy drinking. Nice length, fair acidity, lemon, pear, grapefruit. Minerals, stony feel overall. Not too tart and went well with diced pork in a roasted eggplant/spicy tomato sauce.

Vouvray from Philippe Foreau is one of my very favourite white wines and can be superb in its dry, demi-sec and moelleux renderings. I have never had a wine from Chenin from outside Anjou and Touraine which holds a candle to this but admittedly my experience of much praised South African examples is very limited.

2005 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (30/08/2020)
I should have read my TN of 5 years ago before opening this bottle because it might have encouraged me to decant. As it was the aromas were shy at first and about a third of the bottle had been consumed before it really opened up. Then the nose became expressive with quince tinged white fruit, wax and minerals and the medium bodied palate became beautifully focussed and linear with integrated notes of gracious white fruit, aromatic overlay from the nose, minerals, fresh acidity, round undertow and good backbone. Very elegant and very good.
Posted from CellarTracker

Came across Foreau once when visiting Seattle but had no room in my suitcase!
One more CB from me as we close out the month.

2016 Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Old Vine Reserve, Stellenbosch SA.

Cellared 4 yrs, $26 Cdn. Medium yellow in color, oh gave it an hour to open up. Peach and pear on the nose with some citrus mixed in. Initial entry thought is medium bodied, off-dry, some tropical fruit but not too ripe. Nice minerality, lots of energy here. Balanced crisp acidity, lengthy finish. Enjoyed this one but the Spier 21 Gables is still the CB of the month.

The Spier 21 Gables Chenin Blanc remains my top wine of this months Focus but the following Saumur Blanc has excellent memorable pedigree!!

2019 Cave de Saumur Saumur Blanc Les Pouches.

Well-recognised cooperative, $22 Cdn, 13% alc, SC. 100% CB, 45 yr old vines on a select parcel "Les Pouches".
Light straw color, no green. Nose is light with floral and citrus tones. Minerality shines through with apple and delicate white stonefruit.
Initial entry thought is dry, very good acidity and nice fruit balance. Great mid-palate with unripe apple and pear. The wine held up terrific over 3 days and is a "return-must-buy" for sure. A wonderful Chenin Blanc from Saumur.

From the archives!!

I always enjoy a good Chenin Blanc from Saumur and I just found a 2017 Les Pouches from Saumur. See my note on the 2019 above.
Will enjoy the 2017 with a mild pork curry so stay tuned. Oh..wine was dragged all around BC so has seen more of the province than you lot!

Well. mixed thoughts on the 2017 Les Pouches. . I have not been in the best of health past few days so that might be an issue. This wine seems to have less zip and is not a show-stopper. Melon, pear lime mineral on the nose. Green apple and lime on the palate but lacks excitement. Will however look for other vintages.

Thanks Bob!

This resurrected year old thread misled me into thinking the theme for this month is grapes named blanc, and I saw I posted on Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc at the start. That's a wine we have most Fridays, indeed we had one the Friday just gone, but on Sunday - spurred by this thread - I opened another SB.

20210828_weekendwine-Sun-1.jpg

2015 Bluebell Vineyard Estates Seyval Blanc Hindleap Brut (England, East Sussex)

I think Seyval Blanc makes a really good fizz. This one is a from a single vintage and gets its bubbles via the traditional method of in-bottle fermentation, it spent minimum 29 months on its lees with the first disgorgement February 2020. I intended to keep it longer, as I like to age traditional method sparklers two-three years from disgorgement, but under the delusion that this wine would fit this months theme, I opened it.

English vineyards were advised to grow hybrids like Seyval and German cold weather breeds, but in recent times the three Pinot varieties have been widely planted for production of 'me too' sparkling wines. Thus a Seyval vineyard is likely to have old vines, although Bluebell only began planting in 2005.

Anyway - this one's taste is in the same spectrum as sparklers made from the three Champagne varieties, perhaps more assertive and freshly crisp. And cheaper, being from an unfashionable variety.