WTN: It's not what you know

1999 Clos de Vougeot, Hudelot-Noellat

Deep brick color. Welcoming, complex, mature pinot noir aroma. Full flavors that follow the aroma. Long finish. Everything's in perfect balance. This is what Clos de Vougeot ought to be, and this wine is at the top of its game. Double Curly Larry.

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

Producer, producer, producer.

And location, location, location. The Clos de Vougeot extends from the top of the slope all the way down to the flat land next to the route nationale. Everything within the wall of the Clos is classified grand cru. But the adjacent flat bits by the RN outside the wall are classified merely villages. Back when the Cistercians ran the place, it made some sense to designate the whole place grand cru. The monks had a system similar to the abtsberg/herrenberg/bruderberg system at Maximin Gruenhaus. They made three cuvees: one for the Pope and the abbot, one for local bishops, and one for the monks. In most years only grapes from the part of the Clos adjacent to the grand cru strip of the Cote de Nuits went into the Pope's cuvee, but in years where the mid-slope was more successful that would go into the Pope's cuvee. But the last time I looked, the Clos de Vougeot had over 70 owners. Those with plots at the top, such as Hudelot-Noellat, make genuine grand cru. Those with plots next to the RN make villages wine, but they're permitted to call it grand cru.

-Paul W.

[David M. Bueker]

And location, location, location. The Clos de Vougeot extends from the top of the slope all the way down to the flat land next to the route nationale. Everything within the wall of the Clos is classified grand cru. But the adjacent flat bits by the RN outside the wall are classified merely villages. Back when the Cistercians ran the place, it made some sense to designate the whole place grand cru. The monks had a system similar to the abtsberg/herrenberg/bruderberg system at Maximin Gruenhaus. They made three cuvees: one for the Pope and the abbot, one for local bishops, and one for the monks. In most years only grapes from the part of the Clos adjacent to the grand cru strip of the Cote de Nuits went into the Pope's cuvee, but in years where the mid-slope was more successful that would go into the Pope's cuvee. But the last time I looked, the Clos de Vougeot had over 70 owners. Those with plots at the top, such as Hudelot-Noellat, make genuine grand cru. Those with plots next to the RN make villages wine, but they're permitted to call it grand cru.

-Paul W.

Climate change is improving the wines from near the Route Nationale.

Granted, but they still ain't grand cru.

-Paul W.

It's interesting to remember that until the 18th century, nearly all wine was drunk young from the barrel. Nevertheless the monks at Vougeot took care to divide their produce into different quality lots. It would be an interesting experience to travel back in time to taste those wines. I wonder if we would have liked them?

As Paul Lukacs tells us it was the Cistercian's Burgundy crus that changed the perception of Burgundy wine.

Salute