Michel Rolland recently visited Toronto and this article has appeared in the Wine and Spirits section of the newspaper. After reading it I will say that the author is probably right in that things are not as "doomsday"-like as Nossiter perhaps portrayed in Mondovino, since artisanal wines indeed continue to be made around the world. However, I do think that the economic incentives that have been created thanks to the Rolland-Parker synergy are a real factor for winemakers to grapple with when it comes time to grab the calculator or do the spreadsheet, and the real game comes down to whether a winemaker pursues über-ripeness for the sake of getting on the crest of current fashion or simply says 'screw it' and opts never to reach for the maquillage.
Mondo winemaker enjoys the last laugh